A History of Whitby
A history of Whitby at the height of
its maritime power in the eighteenth and nineteenth century, home to several
large Farndale families.
A look back to the Anglo
Saxon history of Whitby in the time of Celtic and Roman Christianity
Whitby in about 1750
Whitby
Harbour is a safe refuge, when once past the old wooden bridge. Let old Neptune
rise and foam, and run mountains high, all are safe within her walls and
bulwarks.
(John Farndale,
1864)
The port
on the east coast
The port of
Whitby sits on the east coast of Yorkshire at the mouth of the River Esk.
Whitby has a maritime heritage. Upon its East Cliff lie the ruins of Whitby
Abbey, where Cædmon, the earliest recognised English poet, lived.
The fishing port emerged during the Middle Ages and supported coaling, herring
and whaling fleets. It was here that James
Cook learned his seamanship.
Jet and alum were mined locally, and Whitby Jet, which
was mined by the Romans and Victorians, became fashionable during the 19th
century.
Tourism
started in Whitby during the Georgian period and developed with the arrival of
the railway in 1839.
Whitby was
called Streanæshalc (probably meaning ‘Streane’s headland’), Streneshalc,
Streoneshalch, Streoneshalh,
and Streunes-Alae in Lindissi in records of the seventh and eighth centuries
CE. Prestebi, meaning the habitation of
priests in Old Norse, was an eleventh century name. Its name was also
recorded as Hwitebi and Witebi, meaning
the white settlement in Old Norse, in the twelfth century, Whitebi in the thirteenth century and Qwiteby in the fourteenth century.
Medieval
Whitby
The Whitby
headland was settled during the late Bronze Age. A round house within a ditched
enclosure was found near the cliff edge, and a number of
objects dating to this period have been recovered.
The Whitby
headland may have been occupied by a Roman signal station in the third century
CE, as it is midway between known stations at Goldsborough and Ravenscar, and
is in a strategic position at the mouth of the river Esk. However
the site of the signal station has probably long since fallen into the sea as
the cliffs here have eroded steadily. Until recently the only evidence of the
Roman presence in this area was a soldier’s helmet and a few coins, which were
found at Goldsborough and the Signal Station on Huntcliff.
The Saxon
history of the town begins with the introduction of Christianity into
Northumbria. King Edwin and his kinswoman Hilda, then a child, were baptized in
627 CE. Edwin's successor Oswy had vowed to grant lands for monastic purposes
if he should defeat the pagan Penda, and it was possibly in connexion with his
victory at Winwaed in 655 CE that Hilda was given
possession of her lands at Whitby to build a monastery. This was the earliest
record of a permanent settlement in 656 CE, when as Streanæshealh
it was the place where Oswy, the Christian king of Deira, founded the first abbey, under the
abbess Hild.
The monastery was founded as an act of thanksgiving, after Oswy’s defeat of
Penda, the pagan king of Mercia. At its foundation, the abbey was an
Anglo-Saxon double monastery for men and women. Its first abbess, the royal
princess Hild, was later venerated as a saint. The abbey became a centre of
learning and here Cædmon the cowherd was "miraculously"
transformed into an inspired poet whose poetry is an example of Anglo-Saxon
literature. The abbey became the leading royal nunnery of the kingdom of Deira, and the burial-place of its royal
family.
Excavations
here have revealed evidence of Anglian life, including large quantities of
pottery, household goods and fine metal objects. There are two main sources for
the history of Streanæshealh, as it was then
known. These are the Ecclesiastical History of the English People,
completed about 731 by the Venerable Bede, a
monk from St Paul’s Monastery at Jarrow on the Tyne; and a The
Earliest Life of Pope Gregory the Great, by an anonymous monk of Streaneshalch. Chapter
III of the introduction of the anonymous monk’s work tells the early
history of Whitby, as does Book
IV, Chapter 23 of Bede’s work..
Here King
Edwin's headless body, which had lain since 633 CE at Hatfield, was brought for
burial.
It was at
Whitby that the famous synod of Streoneshalch was held in 664 CE which established the
Roman date of Easter in Northumbria and recognised Roman over Celtic Christian
traditions.
The
monastery was destroyed between 867 CE and 870 CE in a series of raids by
Vikings from Denmark under their leaders Ingwar and Ubba.
Its site remained desolate during the early Scandinavian period. In the eleventh century the place
came to be called Prestebi (Scandinavian byr or village presta,
of priests) and later white byr, or Whitby,
but this was much later. The existence of Prestebi
at the Domesday Survey may suggest a revival of religious life in the later
Scandinavian period. The Danish town of Whitby was presumably of some
importance, as close to it was apparently held the Danish Thing, and
nearly all the places in the district in 1086 bore Danish names. Whitby was geldable before the Conquest at the large sum of £112, but
by 1086 had reduced in value to £3, presumably reflecting the ravages of the
Normans during the Harrying
of the North. It had been part of the estates of Earl Siward, Earl of
Northumberland.
The Domesday Book recorded
40 villagers, 8 freemen and 3 smallholders, with 39 ploughlands, and 4 lord’s
plough teams and five men’s plough teams. There was 26 acres of meadow and
woodland strentching to seven by three leagues. It
had a mill, valued at 10s.
By the time
of Domesday, the settlement had gained its current name, Whitby (from
"white settlement" in Old Norse). The first recorded use of the name
Whitby in the eleventh century is unlikely to have been more than a hundred or
so years old, since its origin in Scandinavian.
The Domesday
record listed a number of locations including Baldebi; Breck; Flower[gate]; Fyling
[Old Hall]; [Fyling] Thorpe; Gnipe
[Howe]; [High] Stakesby; Newholm;
Prestby; Sneaton; Sowerby; Ugglebarnby; Whitby.
After the
Conquest, the area was granted to William de Percy who, in 1078 donated land to
found a Benedictine monastery dedicated to St Peter
and St Hilda. William de Percy's gift included land for the monastery, the town
and port of Whitby and St Mary's Church and dependent chapels at Fyling, Hawsker, Sneaton, Ugglebarnby, Dunsley, and Aislaby, five mills
including Ruswarp, Hackness
with two mills and two churches.
The
Benedictine monk Reinfrid established a new community
on the site in 1078. Reinfrid was a soldier of William the Conqueror who became a monk. He
approached William de Percy for a grant of land, who gave him the ruined
monastery of St. Peter with two carucates of land, to found
a new monastery. Serlo de Percy, the founder's brother, joined Reinfrid at the new monastery, which followed the
Benedictine rule. The greater part of de Percy's building was pulled down and
the monastery was rebuilt on a larger scale in the 1220s. The Benedictine abbey
thrived for centuries as a centre of learning.
The Church
of Saint Mary at Whitby was founded in about 1110, although its interior dates
chiefly from the late eighteenth century.
In about
1128 Henry I granted the abbey burgage in Whitby and permission to hold a fair
at the feast of St Hild on 25 August. A second fair was held close to St Hild's
winter feast at Martinmas. Market rights were granted to the abbey and
descended with the liberty.
Whitby Abbey
surrendered in December 1539 when Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries. Its ruins are those seen on Whitby’s
headland today. The vast shell of the abbey church is a magnificent example of
English Gothic architecture. The abbey was bought by Sir Richard Cholmley. It remained in the Cholmley
family and their descendants, the Strickland family. The Strickland family
passed it to the UK government in 1920. The ruins are now owned and maintained
by English Heritage
In 1540 the
town of Whitby had between 20 and 30 houses and a population of about 200. The
burgesses, who had little independence under the abbey, tried to obtain
self-government after the dissolution of the monasteries. The king ordered
Letters Patent to be drawn up granting their requests, but it was not
implemented.
In 1550 the
Liberty of Whitby Strand, except for Hackness, was
granted to the Earl of Warwick who in 1551 conveyed it to Sir John York and his
wife Anne who sold the lease to the Cholmleys.
In the reign of Elizabeth I in the late sixteenth century,
Whitby was a small fishing port.
The prosperous port of Whitby
At the end of the sixteenth century
Thomas Chaloner visited alum works in the Papal States where he observed that the rock being
processed was similar to that under his Guisborough
estate. Alum had medicinal uses, and was used in
curing leather and for fixing dyed cloths. The Papal States and Spain
maintained monopolies on its production and sale. Chaloner secretly brought
workmen to develop the industry in Yorkshire, and alum was produced near
Sandsend Ness five kilometres from Whitby during the reign of James I. Once the
industry was established, imports were banned and although the methods in its
production were laborious, England became self-sufficient. Whitby grew
significantly as a port as a result of the alum trade
and by importing coal from the Durham coalfield to process it.
In 1635 the
owners of the liberty governed the port and town where twenty
four burgesses had the privilege of buying and selling goods brought in
by sea.
Shipbuilding
in Whitby increased very rapidly during the eighteenth century. In 1700, 113
sailboats of small tonnage were constructed. By 1734, 130 ships of 80 tonnes
and upwards were built and by 1776, 251 ships of 80 tonnes and upwards were
built.
It was the
coastal trade which absorbed the majority of these
ships and in particular, the coal trade. Coal was shipped at Newcastle,
Sunderland and Shields for London and the east coast ports, the main part being
for the Capital. It was imported into Whitby both for domestic use and use in
the alum works. In 1690, 60 tons of kelp were shipped from Berwick on Tweed to
Whitby for use in the manufacture of alum and presumably this was not an
isolated instance as the alum trade persisted throughout the century in various
states of economic decline and recovery.
In 1731
Whitby imported coal from Newcastle and Sunderland and wine, linen, nails,
firkin staves, bricks, clog wheels (cart wheels of
thick plank without spokes), and timber from Hull. There were also three
cargoes of miscellaneous goods from London. 27 shipments left the port that
year, one of alum for Newcastle, one of alum for Alloa
and 25 for London which consisted of alum, dried fish and butter.
In 1740 Giles Farndale was
press ganged into the navy in Whitby, and was killed
in the Spanish Main during the War of Jenkins’ Ear.
In 1767 William Farndale,
originally from Kilton was a Master
Mariner who captained colliers along the east coast of England from Whitby to
ports which included London and Newcastle. He was captain of the Abigail and
Martha. Abigail was the name of his daughter and his mother, which suggests
he may have some interest in naming the vessel, in which case he perhaps had
some rights in the collier he sailed, rather than just a captain for another
person.
In 1752, John Farndale was a
seaman on the collier, the Three Brothers, and James Cook was the mate.
Whale
fishing began in Whitby in 1753 and the vessels were
sometimes used in the coal trade during the autumn and winter months and then
adapted for whaling in the summer. In 1753 the first whaling ship set sail to
Greenland and by 1795 Whitby had become a major whaling port. John Farndale was a
seaman on the collier, Friendship, and James Cook was again the mate when it
embarked on a sailing expedition.
By 1776, John Farndale was
captain of the Friendship.
Because of
the increase in shipbuilding, large quantities of timber came into the town.
Most of it was from the Baltic direct or via Hull along the coast. Whitby
registered ships traded with the Baltic from Hull and London and were also
engaged in the trade in the West Indies, Mediterranean, America and the East
Indies. So Whitby seamen employed on locally owned
ships would have picked them up at ports around the country.
Some Whitby
merchants might have been involved with the slave trade
but no definite evidence has come to light and nothing to connect the port with
slave ships.
Luxury goods
such as wine, tea, coffee, sugar, spices, currents, raisins, fine dress
materials and tobacco would come along the coast from London or Hull.
One final
use to which would be ships were put is that of transport vessels in time of
war. The Navy board commandeered the privately owned vessels and paid well for
their use, granting adequate recompense in the event of loss. The crew would
not fare so well if they were all pressed into the Royal Navy.
Whitby
benefited from trade between the Newcastle coalfield and London, both by
shipbuilding and supplying transport. In his youth the explorer James Cook had learned his trade on
colliers, shipping coal from the port. HMS Endeavour, the ship commanded
by Cook on his voyage to Australia and New Zealand, was built in Whitby in 1764
by Tomas Fishburn as a coal carrier named Earl of Pembroke. She was bought by
the Royal Navy 1768, refitted and renamed.
Whitby grew in size and wealth, extending its activities to include
shipbuilding using local oak timber. In 1790 to 1791 Whitby built 11,754 tons
of shipping, making it the third largest shipbuilder in England, after London
and Newcastle. Taxes on imports entering the port raised money to improve and
extend the town's twin piers, improving the harbour and permitting further
increases in trade.
Whitby
developed as a spa town in Georgian times when three chalybeate springs were in
demand for their medicinal and tonic qualities. Visitors were attracted to the
town leading to the building of "lodging-houses" and hotels
particularly on the West Cliff.
In 1790
there were imports of coal, timber, hemp, flax, ashes (for soap), and iron into
Whitby. Exports included sailcloth (7,300 bolts), butter (1,309 firkins), hams
and bacons (21 tonnes 19 cwts 3 qts
10 lbs), oats (4,094 qts) ad
leather (33,615 lbs). Alum and whale oil, blubber, whale fins and whale bone
also formed part of the export trade.
The
Napoleonic Wars were fought between 1793 and 1815.
John Farndale was
probably engaged by the Royal Navy at the turn of he
century, as his wife, Dinah Farndale, obtained a pension from the Royal
Hospital Chelsea in 1841 after he had died in 1837.
Whitby’s
most successful whaling year was 1814 when eight ships caught 172 whales, and
the whaler, the Resolution's catch produced 230 tons of oil. The
carcases yielded 42 tons of whale bone used for 'stays' which were used in the
corsetry trade until changes in fashion made them redundant. Blubber was boiled
to produce oil for use in lamps in four oil houses on the harbourside. Oil was
used for street lighting until the spread of gas lighting reduced demand and
the Whitby Whale Oil and Gas Company changed into the Whitby Coal and Gas
Company. As the market for whale products fell, catches became too small to be
economic and by 1831 only one whaling ship, the Phoenix, remained.
In 1826 John
Chrisopher Farndale the Elder started to captain the William and Nancy
on voyages out of Whitby. He died young aged only 35 in 1837. He sailed mainly
along the east coast, but might have captained a
voyage to Archangel in northern Russia in 1833.
Lewis Carrol
stayed in Whitby on many occasions. It is thought he drew his inspiration for
his poem The
Walrus and the Carpenter from the nearby village of Sandsend.
Burgage
tenure continued until 1837, when by an Act of Parliament, government of the
town was entrusted to a board of Improvement Commissioners, elected by the
ratepayers.
The 1837
Poor Law valuation of Whitby was a list of every property in the township of
Whitby in the year 1837, recording 2,435 houses, tenements, shops, offices and
other places. The valuation included the occupier of the property, its owner, a
description and its rateable value.
In 1834, the
New Poor Law came into operation in England and Wales. As part of this,
parishes were grouped into Poor Law Unions. These were administered locally by
a Board of Guardians, elected by each parish or township, and answerable to a
central Poor Law Commission, based in London. Those families who could not fend
for themselves were either given money or food to sustain themselves, known as
out-relief, or were taken into a Union Workhouse, where the workhouse
master and his staff would deal with their immediate needs. However, the
workhouse was segregated by sex and the inmates were expected to perform
laborious tasks in return for their food and lodging, so this was an option
that the poor avoided unless desperation left them no choice. The funds to pay
for the relief of the poor were collected from the population of the township
or parish, according to the value of the property they occupied. The value of
each property, or more particularly, the rent it would fetch if rented for a
year, was assessed. The local Board of Guardians would decide how much they
needed in each year and each householder was liable for a proportion of this,
depending on the annual rateable value of his property.
In 1837, the
Board of Guardians for the Whitby Union came to the
conclusion that the rateable values that they had been using prior to
that date was out of date. They requested permission from the Poor Law
Commission to conduct a new valuation. When this was granted, in order to record the annual rateable value of each
property, the Board of Guardians appointed a valuer. He wrote a list of
properties with their owners, occupiers and their rateable values, presumably
by walking around the town and interviewing people. This list was published by
a local printer so that people could check that their rateable value was
correct and also that no-one else was being charged
too low a rate. A copy of the list was sent to the Poor Law Commission.
In 1839, the
Whitby and Pickering Railway connecting
Whitby to Pickering and eventually to York was
built, and played a part in the town's development as a tourism destination.
George
Hudson, who promoted the link to York, was responsible for the development of
the Royal Crescent which was partly completed. For 12 years from 1847, Robert
Stephenson, son of George
Stephenson, engineer to the Whitby and Pickering Railway, was the
Conservative MP for the town promoted by Hudson as a fellow protectionist. William
Farndale voted for the Conservative candidate Thomas Chapman after he died
in 1859.
By 1849 William
Farndale was the captain and master of his father’s ship, the William
and Nancy. He is recorded in a very large number of voyages as captain of a number of different ships, mainly brigs, trading coal. His
early voyages were along the east coast, but he led voyages to France.
In 1845,
William’s younger brother John
Christopher Farndale the Younger was an apprentice mariner who went absent.
He was punished by a sentence of a month of hard labour at Northallerton gaol, in order to bring the young delinquents to a sense of
their duty, and act as a warning to others. By January 1853, he was captain
of the John Stewart. He captained brigs on a number of
adventurous voyages including many trips into the Baltic. By 1866 he captained
a new screw steamer (a steam ship), the Medusa and then the Norfolk until
he was lost at sea in the Bay of Biscay in 1868.
Whitby in
1857
Whitby
town from Abbey Terrace, sketched on 3 October 1861
A period
of decline
The advent
of iron ships in the late nineteenth century and the development of port
facilities on the River Tees led to the decline of smaller Yorkshire harbours.
The Monks-haven launched in 1871 was the last wooden ship
built Whitby and a year later the harbour was silted up.
From the mid
nineteenth century all of Whitby 's major traditional industries, wailing,
alum, shipbuilding and fishing, faced the growing challenge of changing markets
add new technological innovation. It was a town in relative decline.
The black
mineraloid jet, the compressed remains of ancestors of the monkey-puzzle tree,
was found in the cliffs and on the moors and had been used since the Bronze Age
to make beads. The Romans are known to have mined it in the area. In Victorian
times, jet was brought to Whitby by pack pony to be made into decorative items.
It was at the peak of its popularity in the mid nineteenth century when it was
favoured for mourning jewellery by Queen Victoria after the death of Prince
Albert.
By the
1880s, Whitby had become a town of two halves.
There was
the impressive grandeur of the West side of the river Esk
which housed the professional classes and accommodated a growing tourist
industry.
In contrast,
the east side of the river was a place of inequality of income and wealth. It
was in large part a ghetto of small houses, stacked together lining narrow
streets and yards clinging to the east side cliffs. It provided accommodation
for the poor of Whitby, the destitute, the unemployed, the unskilled and
skilled artisans, who provided the labour for the towns remaining shipbuilding
and fishing industries and serviced the growing needs of the west side
residents.
Flowergate, late nineteenth century
In 1891 the
census records showed an average age of Whitby's population of 13,414 was only
27 years old. There were extremely high levels of infant mortality among those
who lived on the east side of the town.
On 30
October 1914, the hospital ship Rohilla was
sunk, hitting the rocks within sight of shore just off Whitby at Saltwick Bay. Of the 229 people on board, 85 lost their
lives in the disaster; most are buried in the churchyard at Whitby.
In a raid on
Scarborough, Hartlepool and Whitby in December 1914, the
town was shelled by the German battlecruisers Von der Tann and Derfflinger. In the final assault on the Yorkshire
coast the ships aimed their guns at the signal post on the end of the headland.
Whitby Abbey sustained considerable damage in the attack which lasted ten
minutes. The German squadron responsible for the strike escaped despite
attempts made by the Royal Navy.
The Whitby
Gazette of 31 January 1919 published a letter objecting to dark, damp and
crowded housing on the east side, declaring them to be far worse than the
London slums in the East End and advocating that the unhealthy houses be
pulled down, the streets widened, and that Whitby shall be made into a place of
health and beauty... then will be the time for artists to paint Whitby with its
red tiled roofs that are water tight.
During the
early twentieth century the fishing fleet kept the harbour busy
and few cargo boats used the port. It was revitalised as a
result of a strike at Hull docks in 1955 when six ships were diverted
and unloaded their cargoes on the fish quay.
Endeavour
Wharf, near the railway station, was opened in 1964 by the local council.
The number
of vessels using the port in 1972 was 291, increased from 64 in 1964. Timber,
paper and chemicals are imported while exports include steel, furnace-bricks
and doors. The port is owned and managed by Scarborough Borough Council since
the Harbour Commissioners relinquished responsibility in 1905.
Whitby
today
Dracula
and Whitby
Bram Stoker
arrived at Mrs Veazey’s guesthouse at 6 Royal Crescent, Whitby, at the end of
July 1890. As the business manager of actor Henry Irving, Stoker had just
completed a gruelling theatrical tour of Scotland. It was Irving who
recommended Whitby, where he’d once run a circus, as a place to stay. Stoker,
having written two novels with characters and settings drawn from his native
Ireland, was working on a new story, set in Styria in Austria, with a central
character called Count Wampyr.
Stoker had a
week on his own to explore before being joined by his wife and baby son. Mrs
Veazey liked to clean his room each morning, so he’d stroll from the genteel
heights of Royal Crescent down into the town. On the way, he took in views that
had been exciting writers, artists and romantic visitors for the past century.
The favoured
Gothic literature of the period was set in foreign lands of eerie castles,
convents and caves. Whitby’s windswept headland, the dramatic abbey ruins, a
church surrounded by swooping bats, and a long association with jet, the stone
of mourning jewellery, evoked the landscape that Stoker was imagining.
Bram
Stoker photographed in about 1906
High above
Whitby, and dominating the whole town, stands Whitby Abbey, the ruin of the
once great Benedictine monastery, founded in the eleventh century. The medieval
abbey stands on the site of a much earlier monastery, founded in 657 CE by an
Anglian princess, Hild, its first abbess.
In Dracula,
Stoker depicted Mina Murray, whose experiences form the thread of the novel,
recorded in her diary. Right
over the town is the ruin of Whitby Abbey, which was sacked by the Danes …
It is a most noble ruin, of immense size, and full of beautiful and romantic
bits; there is a legend that a white lady is seen in one of the windows. Between
it and the town is another church, the parish one,,
round which is a large graveyard, all full of tombstones. This is to my
mind the nicest spot in Whitby for it is right over the town, and has a full
view of the harbour and all up the bay ,,,
Below the
abbey stands the ancient parish church of St Mary, perched on East Cliff, which
is reached by a climb of 199 steps. Bran Stoker described St Mary’s Church. For
a moment or two I could see nothing, as the shadow of a cloud obscured St.
Mary's Church. Then as the cloud passed I could see
the ruins of the Abbey coming into view; and as the edge of a narrow band of
light as sharp as a sword-cut moved along, the church and churchyard became
gradually visible... It seemed to me as though something dark stood behind the
seat where the white figure shone, and bent over it.
What it was, whether man or beast, I could not tell.
There is a
gravestone with a skull and crossbones, which it is sometimes claimed is the
fictional Dracula’s grave, but in reality was probably
the mark of a stonemason. And there is the tale of a suicide’s grave, where
vampires have been depicted to reside. He pointed to a stone at our feet
which had been laid down as a slab, on which the seat was rested, close to the
edge of the cliff. “Read the lies on that thruff-stone,”
he said. The letters were upside down to me from where I sat, but Lucy was more
opposite to them, so she leant over and read, “Sacred to the memory of George
Canon, who died, in the hope of a glorious resurrection, on July 29, 1873,
falling from the rocks at Kettleness. This tomb was
erected by his sorrowing mother to her dearly beloved son. `He was the only son
of his mother, and she was a widow.’ Really, Mr. Swales, I don’t see anything
very funny in that!” She spoke her comment very gravely and somewhat severely.
“Ye don’t see aught funny! Ha-ha! But that’s because ye don’t gawm the sorrowin’ mother was a
hell-cat that hated him because he was acrewk’d, a
regular lamiter he was, an’ he hated her so that he
committed suicide in order that she mightn’t get an insurance she put on his
life.”….I did not know what to say, but Lucy turned the conversation as she
said, rising up, “Oh, why did you tell us of this? It is my favourite seat, and
I cannot leave it, and now I find I must go on sitting over the grave of a
suicide.”
Stoker would
have seen how time and the weather had gnawed at the graves, some of them
teetering precariously on the eroding cliff edge. Some headstones stood over
empty graves, marking the memorial sites of seafarers whose bodies had been
lost on distant voyages. Stoker noted down some inscriptions and names for
later use, including Swales, the name he used for Dracula’s first victim in
Whitby.
On 8 August
1890, Stoker walked down to what was known as the Coffee House End of the Quay
and entered the public library. It was there that he found a book published in
1820, recording the experiences of a British consul in Bucharest, William
Wilkinson, in the principalities of Wallachia and Moldavia, now in Romania.
Wilkinson’s history mentioned a fifteenth century prince called Vlad Tepes who was said to have impaled his enemies on wooden
stakes. He was known as Dracula, the son of the dragon. The author had
added in a footnote, Dracula in the Wallachian language means Devil. The
Wallachians at that time … used to give this as a surname to any person who
rendered himself conspicuous either by courage, cruel actions, or cunning.
While
staying in Whitby, Stoker heard of a shipwreck five years earlier of a Russian
vessel called the Dmitry, from Narva. This ran aground on Tate Hill
Sands below East Cliff, carrying a cargo of silver sand. With a slightly
rearranged name, this became the Demeter from Varna that carried Dracula
to Whitby with a cargo of silver sand and boxes of earth.
So, although
Stoker was to spend six more years on his novel before it was published,
researching the landscapes and customs of Transylvania, the name of his villain
and some of the novel’s most dramatic scenes were inspired by his holiday in
Whitby. The innocent tourists, the picturesque harbour, the abbey ruins, the
windswept churchyard, the
suicide’s gravestone in Whitby churchyard, and the sailors’ tales he heard
from Whitby seafarers all became ingredients in the novel.
In 1897 Dracula
was published. It had an unpromising start as a play called The Undead,
in which Stoker hoped Henry Irving would take the lead role. But after a test
performance, Irving said he never wanted to see it again. For the character of
Dracula, Stoker retained Irving’s aristocratic bearing and histrionic acting
style, but he redrafted the play as a novel told in the form of letters,
diaries, newspaper cuttings and entries in the ship’s log of the Demeter.
The log
charts the gradual disappearance of the entire crew during the journey to
Whitby, until only the captain was left, tied to the wheel, as the ship ran
aground below East Cliff on 8 August, the date that marked Stoker’s discovery
of the name Dracula in Whitby library. A large dog bounded from the wreck and
ran up the 199 steps to the church, and from this moment, Dracula had arrived
in Whitby.
There are
many Farndales buried at St Mary’s churchyard of Dracula repute including John Farndale in
1712, Thomas
Farndale, a ship’s carpenter, in 1747, Francis Farndale
in 1772, John
Farndale who sailed with James Cook, in 1790, Robert Farndale
in 1827, Thomas
Farndale in 1834, John Chistopher
Farndale the Elder and James Farndale in
1837 and Thomas
Farndale in 1859.
or
Go Straight to Chapter 13 –
The Mariners of Whitby
There is a
webpage on Whitby with research notes, and a
chronology with source material.
You can also
explore:
T S Willan, The
English coasting trade 1600 – 1750. Manchester University 1938.
Rev George
Young, History
of Whitby, two volumes Clark and Medd, Whitby 1817.
Whitby
then and Now, Colin Waters, 2004
A History
of the County of York North Riding: Volume 2, originally published by Victoria
County History, London, 1923, Whitby.