Act 27
The Albertans
The Kinseys and Farndales in about
1931
Back Row: Martin Farndale,
George Farndale,
Ruth Farndale,
Will Kinsey, Alfred
Farndale, Jim
Farndale
Middle Row: Alfred Kinsey, Edna
Farndale, Jimmy
Farndale , Martin
Farndale, Grace
Farndale holding Anne
Farndale
Front Row: Dorothy Kinsey, Janie
Farndale
The story of the Farndales who
settled in Alberta
This
is a new experiment. Using Google’s Notebook LM, listen to an AI powered
podcast summarising this page. This should only be treated as an
introduction, and the AI generation sometimes gets the nuance a bit wrong. However
it does provide an introduction to the themes of this page, which are dealt
with in more depth below. Listen to the podcast for an overview, but it
doesn’t replace the text below, which provides the accurate historical
record. |
|
Go West! Settling Canada’s Prairies An
introduction to the settlement of the Albertan prairies. |
Breaking
the prairie
At the turn of
the century Canada was a young country with vast open spaces and was looking to
attract immigrants. The Canadian Government had passed the Dominion
Lands Act 1872 and the Homestead Regulations Act, to make land available to
settlers. The Minister of the Interior, Clifford Sifton began a vigorous
advertising campaign in Britain. People came streaming into Canada between 1900
and 1920.
The early
pioneers took up a homestead of land offered by the Canadian government.
This became known as homesteading. Any male who was the sole head of a
household and over 18, could pay $10 and file a claim for a quarter section of
land. He then had three years to meet particular requirements before he could
apply for the land. The requirements were that (1) a habitable house was to be
built on the quarter; (2) there was mandatory residence for at least 6 months
in three consecutive years; (3) land had to be broken each year (usually 10
acres a year, but this was determined by the inspector), totalling 30 acres
after 3 years and the land had to be fenced; (4) a barn for at least four head
had to be built.
The Farndales of Tidkinhow Line were the family
of twelve who were the descendants of Martin and
Catherine Farndale, who we met in Act 25.
Five brothers and two sisters left Yorkshire for Alberta, in search of a new
life. As Grace
Farndale later recalled One of our neighbours said he had never
seen such an exodus of a family. I guess it was Gran
really, we all stayed as long as he lived, though he never asked us to do that.
We were to do as we wished. After all we were all grown up and we were all very
independent.
Scene 1 - The Trochu Cattle Farmer
Martin Farndale was
the first to emigrate to Alberta in June 1905 and went first to Calgary, where
he took some land from the Canadian Pacific Railway near Trochu. He built a small wooden house, a shack,
and began farming.
The
original house that Martin built Martin's shack
taken when it was still standing in 1981
Armand
Trochu had come to Calgary three years before Martin in 1902. He stayed with
friends in the city and heard about Alberta’s rich grasslands. While searching
for an ideal site, he heard from a native member of a survey crew about a
lovely valley, not far from Three Hills
and near the Buffalo Lake Trail. Armand was drawn to the sheltered coulee of
what was to become known as Trochu, by the
promise of bubbling springs that never went dry in the summer and did not
freeze in the winter.
The
French cavalrymen, including Armand Trochu at far left
In 1904 the
de Beautrap brothers came to Calgary and visited some
friends near the new site of Trochu. They
had also heard about the ideal ranch site, and they decided to settle there.
They bought their first land from Hiram Letts. In 1905, the same year that Martin Farndale
arrived, Armand Trochu returned to Alberta after a fund raising campaign in
France, with two officers, Joseph Devilder, and Leon
Eckenfelder. The French aristocrats formed the St Ann Trading Company, which
was incorporated in 1905. The pioneer town of Trochu
was born. Dr Louis Sculier arrived in the district at
about the same time and he served the area as a doctor and interpreter. The St
Ann Trading Company added a stopping place to the cluster of buildings, and it
served as a hotel until 1908. The building was used as a dance hall and the
music was supplied by Jack Ross, George Walker and Dr Sculier.
The dances lasted all night and the people stayed for breakfast. One end of the
room at the stopping place became the first post office, which was established
in 1906. In those days it was the post office that was first named, and it was
named Trochu Valley. Armand Trochu weas the first postmaster. A creamery was
established with remarkably modern equipment for the time and operated for some
years until it closed in 1912. It was hampered by the lack of a railway at the
time and was unable to ship out its butter. Frank Dorland moved to Trochu
Valley in 1906 from Horse Shoe Lake, and he became the first blacksmith.
Buildings were built at a new site in 1907. The first town council were Herve
de Reinach-Werth who was the first mayor, J C MacGregor and J C Burns.
Trochu
1909
Trochu 1910
Trochu 1911
Trochu’s enthusiastic
reports soon attracted other French settlers, including Ernest Frere who
arrived in 1910. The Frenchmen brought the first garden, grain and flower seeds
to the area. They built all of the first buildings, including a Stopping Place,
the first Post Office, school, hospital, Catholic church, and stores; and
raised purebred horses and cattle. The large Ranch house was built by Joseph Devilder. In 1911, the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway surveyed
a line to the east of this townsite, and like many other Alberta communities,
the town of Trochu was moved to suit the railroad.
The Roach
Municipal District was formed in 1913 in honour of Leslie Roach, the pioneer of
Huxley. The outbreak of the First World War
ended the first era of Trochu’s history. Most of the French officers returned
to Europe and many never returned. Armand Trochu was too old to serve, but was
in ill health and he died in France in 1930. Xavier de Beaudrap,
Eckenfelder and Paillard were the only Frenchmen to return to Trochu after the
War, and the de Beaudraps were the only French family
to settle for the longer term.
Scene 2 - The shy man of Three Hills
George Farndale
emigrated to Alberta with his brother James in 1911.
George took a
homestead near Three Hills, not
far from Trochu and lived there all his life
until he retired, when he went to live in Calgary. He lived alone all his life,
remaining reserved and shy.
There are
many stories about him. Once he came to help his younger brother, Alfred
Farndale, to drill corn. He arrived and started and then, with the job only
half done, he drove himself and the drill home. Something said had annoyed him,
so he left. He was known as a very upright and honest man. His bank manager
used to say he was one hundred per cent reliable.
There is
also a story that he cared for a local girl, a nurse, who also liked him. She
knew he was shy and tried to help him propose. He thought she was trying to
pressurise him, so he never spoke to her again.
Three Hills was incorporated as a
village in 1912, the year it was moved to its current location on the Canadian
Northern Railway. With ranchers and farmers constituting its first residents,
it soon became a centre for the surrounding wheat-growing area.
Scene 3 - The American
James (“Jim”) Farndale
emigrated to Alberta and later on to America.
1885 to 1967 A pioneer who
played an important role in the construction of the Hoover Dam in Nevada and
later became a US Senator |
|
Atlantic crossings at the time of Titanic The
story of five brothers and two sisters who crossed the Atlantic in the age of
Titanic to emigrate to Canada |
|
The
full transcript of Jim’s record of his trip top Canada |
Having crossed the Atlantic, his diary picks up the
story of his railway journey across Canada to Alberta in April 1911.
The
trains do not come under shelter, but passengers have to go outside and get in
off the ground, there are no platforms, it is just same as getting into a tram
car and they are similar to tram cars inside.
It was about two o’clock when the train glided along, and there was
quite a stampede and those first in got the worst accommodation the train was
already nearly full so many of us got in.
Our party (5 of us) were unable to get together, we got seats here and
there. We sat in train till five o’clock
before we started; it was such a messy business. The cars we got in had no sleeping
accommodation so we of course just had to sit.
The prospect of sitting a week was not very becoming to us, but those
were the best hopes we had. One of our
party had got a tourist ticket, eventually paying about 4f more than we had, of
course George had his first class return ticket, were travelling same as us,
and seemed not too amiable but it is a decided mistake to get tourist ticket at
this time of year, they get no better fare to the crush. I had tried to persuade George to travel
ahead of us but he travelled with us a day and half and left us and went by
Montreal.
Before
starting they had to put more carriages to get all passengers in first as it
was breaking dawn when we started.
There was
a young man sitting next to me who we had noticed on the boat. He had been a solicitor in Sheffield, having
lost his hearing he had come out to Canada three years ago and worked at
farming, been back to England for a holiday.
He could only be spoken to by speaking tube, which he always
carries. He came along with us from
Halifax. He is well educated and most
interesting. George he and I fed
together, each have our own food. Our
grub which we brought from home is all very good and quite fresh. Everything is so very dear. We were fortunate to be prepared and owe much
to those that so well provided us. There
is in every coach a shower but it is a nuisance and gets very dirty.
So many
people as usual want it at the same time but get tired of waiting. So my spirit stove was most useful. We had a somewhat smoky breakfast the first
morning but we were glad our eatables were all good. One mistake I made in packing I had put too
many things together.
Tuesday
10 April 1911
The
country through which we passed the first day was very broken a lot of timber
and bush with only patches of land cultivated or fit for cultivation. There was a good deal of snow for a good many
miles after leaving Halifax, but in getting further inland we found much of it
had disappeared. We stopped at most of
the small stations, but only for a few minutes and we travelled very quickly.
This part
of the country is not very interesting, it was so rough. We reached St. Johns in good time the first
evening, but just before reaching it for a few miles we passed through a better
country. We had about twenty minutes to
wait, but were afraid to go very far into the town. It was a nice place, very similar to
Halifax. Very hilly scenes almost built
on a hillside. It is however quite an
old fashioned place. The snow was all
gone and streets quite clean.
Trams, of
course, were running all over the town it seemed a very busy place and had many
large business houses. I cannot say much
about it, as I did not see a quarter of it.
Wednesday
11 April 1911
After
passing further it was through I think, the loveliest country I ever saw, as
far as one could see there were hills covered with green spread trees. It
looked just like the pictures at the lecture at Glasgow on the Rocky Mountains. This part is well worth seeing; there is also
a shallow stretch of water runs about the town.
I’m not sure whether it is the St. Lawrence, it can hardly be that, but
it certainly is a most beautiful sight and the sight was very fine and
certainly showed it up to advantage but could see the hills towering up for ten
miles and looks fine over such a stretch of land. After passing away from that lovely region we
came to better land for some distance.
We travelled all night at a fast speed.
We could of course go from one end of train to the other, to see who’s
in, and we were on the look out for sleeping
apartments. The deaf Gent, who’s name is Roberts
found a place somewhere to sleep and I had a seat to myself. He also found a lady with three kiddies. She hadn’t got a supply of bread. We gave her
some of ours and bought her a supply at St. Johns. She was going to Montreal, so we arranged to
take her place next day after she left train.
She had good sleeping accommodation; after we had made this arrangement
someone else came along after same purpose, so we were just in time. We had been hoping all along to go to
Montreal, when the officials informed us they were going to branch us off at
Montreal which is another six miles from city itself we were so
disappointed. They had to take our car
with other passengers and the “party of women”.
George another of our party (the one with tourist ticket) decided to
leave us to take the Montreal route and the rest of us had to do as we were
told for the time being anyhow. It was
about noon said day when we reached the “parting of the ways”. It was right out on the prairie; no station;
and the great powerful engines three in numbers soon had the train separated
after a lot of shunting about.
Everybody
had to look out for themselves, for they seemed to respect nothing, they go
right on whether people are ready or not.
So after travelling together for two weeks the party was “split” up and
folks get a little excided at these times.
The new
section of train slashed out at last, we were all at the windows waving etc.
until the Montreal party turned a corner and was out of sight. Many of us never to see each other again. On we go again racing over a very rough
country for many hours, there was a lot of land not fit for cultivation. This was to me rather surprising, finding so
much rough land in this settled old country.
There has so far been very little really good-looking land, sometimes we
travelled hours and never saw a decent farm.
There
seems to be lots of lumber yards and seems to be the chief industry if that is
the name for it, also I notice the fences are all wood and very clumsily put
together. I suppose they have a way of
putting up in a shape, with some nails, but takes about as much more timber as
fencing in English style.
Another
separation has taken place. The Toronto
passengers have been cut off, hitched to another train and have now left us and
of course we shall probably not see them again.
Thursday
13 April 1911
We are
now at a place called (Smith Falls) from Montreal it is a double track and
going straight on south of Toronto, but we must turn north again a little to
get to the Winnipeg track. After leaving
this place we have a very good run during the night of about 200 miles and
arrive at a place North Bay about four o’clock.
It is quite a centre on this line.
At this station, our friend Roberts left us, and so I’m left almost
alone, except for Beckwith, who spends most of his time with a rather rowdy
gang of men, not however far from me, but a little too near.
Train
station at North Bay on the Grand Trunk Railway, about 1910
Roberts
and I went round to a restaurant, as soon as the train stopped. We found that Roberts’ brother had been there
waiting since about midnight but had gone to a hotel in town and after saying
“goodbye” he left luggage and went off to the hotel. We were informed our train would stand twenty
minutes so that we were afraid to go far, however instead twenty mins: we were
kept waiting four hours. We never know
when we may be pushed into a siding for a few hours, as these are not regular
running trains, most of the line is single and they have to get through when it
is clear. Sometimes we have a long wait,
when a train whisks past us and away we go.
North Bay
is quite a busy town of about 1200 inhabitants, and seems a fine place. Last night a rather amusing incident
occurred. I was sitting reading about
midnight when the conductor came round to look at our tickets. One of them came a little ahead of the others
to wake us I suppose. It was such a
business, some of them did heap reproaches at the conductors, but they took it
all in good part.
Friday
14 April 1911
After
leaving North Bay we seemed to be getting along well and we imagine we must be
in front of Montreal party when we stopped at a small place named Chaplan. A few
minutes following us another train drew up behind us and we were surprised to
meet some of the other party. We found
they were all there, but the train was running in two sections, their one soon
went out and left us once more. The other section drew up later and we found
George and his companion in it. They
having spent 8 hours in Montreal and were now to go ahead of us. They soon left us waiting but we could not
help ourselves. George and tourist young
man were travelling first class. I
understand there are more colonist trains in front and two behind independent,
of the two just passed on. Each train
has about 14 coaches, I am all crowded.
After
leaving this place about 6 o’clock we travel at good speed all night. By daybreak we are just coming to the coast
of Lake Superior. It is similar to
looking over the sea, the scenery in many places is very pretty, the waves are
darting up round the coast, and against the huge rocks. We pass quite near it for about 100 miles
along the coast. Lake Superior is, I
think, over 300 miles long and about 160 in breadth. The C.P.R. has a stream boat service from
“Vault St. Marie”, on the east coast to Fort William west. There is a short
distance from the coast, a number of small Islands, some of them covered with
green trees and rocks which are exceedingly pretty. We have also passed two horseshoe curves and
the track is close to the water edge. It
is a fine sight to view along a long train such as this, gliding swiftly round
such curves. It is most wonderful.
Much of
the Lake near the coast is still ice-bound and we were all much interested in
the sight, four dogs, during the day, were seen trotting leisurely along in a
sleigh, in which were two men. It was
most interesting.
This
morning I was walking along the railway, whilst the train was standing to get
water, when I met a young man whom I knew quite well, but was so taken by
surprise, that I could not for the moment bring to mind who he was. When I remembered it was one of the Potters
from Mosgrove Park. The whole family
were on the train and although I had walked the length of train inside and out
I had never noticed them and they had not noticed me. They were in the front of the train. They had been 13 days on sea and landed St.
Johns same day as we landed at Halifax.
The two
main places of interest we have passed today are Fort William and Port
Anstruther, which are practically near, quite busy places, just I believe,
divided by shallow river.
I
understand there are lots of works here and some mines. We of course have
passed away from the Great Lake.
Saturday
15 April 1911
Last
evening we travelled very fast 300 miles and arrived in Winnipeg about
4am. I was determined to see Winnipeg.
Beckwith was not inclined and would go along with his party, their train was in
waiting. I saw them off and eventually
went off alone. The morning was very
cold and frosty, the streets all frozen up, cars were running and a few
restaurants were already open.
I walked
out a little, but found it much too cold, and was obliged to return. I hurried back to station where hundreds of
people were waiting. I did a little
reading and writing to put on time.
About 7am I left my luggage at the office and went out for
breakfast. After which I had a long walk
right through the town. I arrived back
in time to see the people flock into “Eatons” famous
establishment, meaning of course the work people.
Eaton’s
department store, Winnipeg, 1910
The T. Eaton
Company Limited, later known as Eaton's and then Eaton, was a Canadian
department store chain that was once the largest in the country. It was founded
in 1869 in Toronto by Timothy Eaton, an immigrant from what is now Northern
Ireland. Eaton's grew to become a retail and social institution in Canada, with
stores across the country, buying-offices around the globe, and a mail-order catalog that was found in the homes of most Canadians.
There
were hundreds, seeing them go in gives one a better idea of what the place
is. It is a huge building and stands
eight storeys high and five floors are open to the public. I spent nearly two hours inside, looking
round. One may buy anything it is
possible to get here, and at a much cheaper rate than at ordinary stores. Winnipeg is a splendid place and is growing
very rapidly, wherever one goes, building and street developing is going on
very largely.
After
having had lunch, we resumed our journey leaving Winnipeg about 1.30pm. I was almost entirely amongst strangers this
time as most of those whom I’d travelled with had gone straight on. I had not seen George but concluded he’d gone
right on, however he had arrived in about midnight.
We were
now right out on the open prairie and a fine country too, by far the best
farming country I had seen the whole journey.
We are having a lot of stoppages now; people seem to be getting in and
out all along, hence the delays. We’re
not getting along half so quickly, a decided change in our speed, but we only
stop a few minutes. There are a few
small towns. I suppose they are all
called towns in this country. Shacks and
small farmhouses dotted here and there, but seem quite a distance apart.
Before
dark we passed through Brandon, which is a decent little place and sometime
early in the evening we pass out of Manitoba into Saska Chewan,
at a place called Kinkella and have 400 miles before reaching Alba. We continually pass empty trains gong back
east, they go at a terrific pace. There
are, out here a lot of small lakes and there seem to be a good many ducks and
geese on them. It is quite a ranching part also, as there is a lot of cattle.
Sometime
during the night we have passed Moore Jaw which is quite an important place,
the population I believe being about 1200.
Sunday
16 April 1911 (Easter Sunday)
This my
third Sunday of travelling, I hope it will be the last. I had almost forgotten
it was Easter, until whilst reading papers I came across some Easter news and
it sort of reminded me. I travelled some
part with a Yankee today, but he got off at Medicine Hat about noon. This place has about 5000 population and I
understand is a fast growing place.
We are
now in Alberta our last province. They
took off some of the coaches today, we were rather crowded.
I met a
young man from Redcar today; he says I’m the first man he’s met from Cleveland,
in the final years he’s been in this country.
He has homesteaded in Saska Chewan and was now
seeking more land. I think he said his
father had been in the milk trade at Redcar, or had been, he was awfully
pleased to meet me, and of course wanted to know all about Cleveland. We travelled together to Calgary, we
travelled through a fine country and reached Calgary at 6pm.
Roberts
and his friend were waiting for me.
Beckwith, who had promised to wait at Calgary after waiting a few hours
had already resumed his journey so that I did not see him again.
They took
me round to see my box, which was badly broken but we tightened ropes a little
and went off to the Hotel where we had dinner, had a stroll round town, which
was very lively and a great many people.
However, we soon made our way back to the Hotel, and got off to bed in
decent time, where we had a good nights sleep, the
first, almost, for weeks.
Monday
17 April 1911 (Easter Monday)
The next
morning, it came on to snow heavily but we heard Martin was
waiting at Olds, had come in on Saturday to meet us. We decided to take the first train out. However we slept rather long and had to rush
breakfast etc. as our train was due at 8am.
On checking my box at Halifax, addressed only to Calgary, also I was
only booked to Calgary, so had tried to get luggage, but failed to get it on
train and only just got it checked in time to catch train myself having to
leave it behind. After leaving Calgary,
we were soon away from the snow, into a fine farming country, I suppose very
good land. This train was very crowded,
many having to stand. It was a two hour
journey up to Olds. Martin was
waiting on platform, he was the first man I saw standing with a dog by his side.
Olds,
late nineteenth century
Olds Railway station about 1920
He said
until the moment he saw me he had never been sure whether I was coming or not
as only George’s luggage had arrived, he naturally thought I had not come.
The next
problem to decide was whether to wait for my baggage for the next train was
probably bringing it but that meant staying overnight. We eventually however decided to set out
without it.
They
assured me this was the longest journey I’d ever make behind horses, and I
think it was. The roads were not very good being very wet. However the horses were in good condition and
we started out about 11am. On this
rather tedious journey they informed me it would take us till 9pm and would be
very cold so we wasted no time. After
driving at a good speed for nine miles we unhooked the horses, in a “Goulee”, fed and watered them. We had a great many good
English cakes packed in a box, we did not starve. After a little rest we again started out, but
we could see the Rockies quite plain, which was a beautiful sight when covered
with snow. They are some miles from
here, quite a distance but are able to see so distinctly.
After
about 12 miles further we pulled into a stopping house, where we had supper and
fed and rested the horses. It was about
5pm when we started out once more to complete our long journey. It was a fine night but desperately cold.
The road
was quite straight, no turning, till we turn in at Martin’s gate,
it was 9pm when at last we did turn in.
Herbert
and Lang had intended staying out on this day but we’d already heard on our way
they had not done so. We could see they
were still there, by the lights in the Shack. They had evidently heard us
coming and were busily preparing for us.
The end
of the journey of 18 days and 5,500 miles
A few
more minutes and we were at last at our long journeys end. After travelling 18 days, night and day, were
really not sorry after travelling 5500 miles to know it ended for a time.
I’m
afraid we all sat up rather later that night, “Five lonely old batchelors”.
Jim’s diary
continued by describing Martin’s
neighbourhood.
Tuesday
18 April 1911
The next
day after our arrival I had a good look round the immediate neighbourhood. Martin’s place
is very good land, the whole district seems to be good and will doubtless
become a good farming part. But that
which surprises me most is the irregularity of the land. I had heard it was what they call rolling but
that apparently means more than I expected, for I should call a lot of it
hilly, of course there are no big hills such as we are accustomed to in England
of course no trees, so that we can see a way in some places. Sometimes there is a hill, and we can only
see a few hundred yards but on reaching the hill top we may look over a stretch
of 10 yards then another and so on. I
expect to see it much more level than it is.
These short steep hills also make the roads much heavier than they would
be in a really level country, there are some parts much flatter than this.
Wednesday
19 April 1911
On the
second day Herbert and Lang wanted to drive to Trochu Valley a settlement 10 minutes
from Curlew Pass to see if they could learn anything of the fishing boat which
had been frozen in the river, as they wanted to cross to get to their
land. I drove with them to see the place.
Olds, Lochrin and Curlew are in a distinct line, east and
west. The road is quite straight all the
way. Between Lochrin
and Olds the distance is 40 miles. Curlew being 30 miles from Olds. There are telephone runs all along, between
the three towns and runs right along Martin’s fence which is on the road side. Lochrin is quite a
busy little town, it is growing very rapidly.
Olds is the nearest station so imagine hauling materials 40 miles by
road to build a town, this is however, what these pioneers had to do.
The
railway grade is cut right through it ready for the street, so they are sure of
getting trains through this year and then this will be a booming place. It is chiefly a French settlement and most of
the inhabitants around it are foreigners but they are chiefly a go ahead
people. We had got the information
required and so started on our homeward journey, but it was late when we
finally did arrive. The boys had
information that the ferry was washed down river, so decided not to wait for
it, but go about 40 miles north to the bridge.
Saturday
22 April 1911
They
started out the following Saturday and Martin started off for Calgary, George
to his own place leaving me to my own resources. It was very quiet, after being
so lively for a few days of course George returned at night and we had the
weekend together. Some of his horses got
out on the road and escaped on the open prairie during the weekend, we spent a
lot of time looking for them, heard nothing until Martin brought them in on
Tuesday. He had bought some in Olds, and
found those that had got away near Olds so he landed back with 6 horses riding
on.
This
plainly shows you how far stock can wander without being stopped; they
travelled 30 miles and could have gone hundreds more. All through leaving a gate open.
The
following weeks, we saw one day a Coyote cross Martin’s place and on another
occasion what is a rare thing an antelope cross within arm’s length of us. We at first only thought it was an antelope
but our belief was confirmed by several other people seeing it and had been
much nearer to it than us. It is very seldom one is seen in this part but one
may cross occasionally. Badgers and
Gofers are very numerous; they are a sharp little thing similar to a ferret
with a kind of yellow coat in winter, which changes to dark brown in summer.
There are very pretty birds, small birds are very numerous, lots of ducks and
geese in some parts. Lots of fish too in
the creeks and rivers. There are lots of
other kinds of animals but are getting very scarce just now, besides those
mentioned.
In May 1911,
Jim went on a camping expedition to explore the prairie.
I will
just try to give a short account of our trip east over the river, as it is
nearly a hundred miles over the open country.
Behind a team there ought to be something of interest although I don’t
think I am able to make it, it appears very interesting.
The river to
the east of Trochu is the Red Deer River
which heads eastward from Red Deer and then south passing about 5 kilometres
east of Trochu.
We had
been hurrying along with the work in order to start out and it was not the
first time we’d had all been ready for starting our rather long journey. After doing, however, a little extra baking
and providing for our journey in various ways we started out one very chilly
morning with provisions and tent etc., as of course it was our intention to
camp. It was about 7am when we pulled on
to the road; the team was in good spirits and jolted along at a decent
speed. When starting out a long journey
it would not do to run the horses hard, it is always wise to go slowly. We had to get horses shod at Trochu so were
delayed for a time. We got away again,
and had a short run before dinner, when we came to a creek, loosened our
horses, fed them and had dinner. By this
time it had come on to raining, so we knew worse luck was in store. We did not stay long, but some packed up
again and were off down the trail faster than before.
Rain soon
begins to tell on the earth and the wheels are soon laden with mud, which makes
it heavy for the horses. It rained
perhaps two hours, and again got out a little brighter and the roads dry when
the rain ceases.
For about
20 miles of our journey was over a good trail and quite open country. Presently we began to come to some bush, and
worse roads and to have more difficulty in finding the right trails. There is some land in this country called “Thistleback” so called on account of its being covered with
little mounds, similar to mole-hills over there. This looks very curious, and also feels so
when one is riding over it or gallop in a wagon.
However
there is a lot of speculation on the original cause of this. Some say that it has been caused by prairie
fires, which have eaten away the holes and left the mounds,. I will not, myself express an opinion, but
this does not seem unreasonable in a dry country like this.
After,
however, driving some 200 miles over the prairie it is not easily forgotten and
I just wanted to describe the condition of roads, in many parts. In a settled part, where the roads are well
kept they are ploughed up and therefore become level. I think I have forgotten to say, that there
are no hard roads. In bad places they
are just ground, they plough up a lot of soil by the roadside and haul it along
by the side of a thing called a slip with two horses. They have some kind of a thing called a grader
which takes quite a number of horses but as I’ve not seen one that is all I
know, and I really dare not ask our intelligent Canadian about a simple thing
like this, they are really so very wise.
We had
anticipated doing really 50 miles of our journey the first day but we were so
greatly hampered by the rain and bad road that we had to be satisfied with much
less. We passed over a few miles of
country that looked just rather peculiar.
It was all sloughs and knobs similar to the turtle back, on a much
larger scale, looking very much like the sea on a rough day. After this we began to get further into the
bush, which gradually gets bigger, and thicker as we go north. The land is very much cut up by sloughs and
lakes, and it is swarming with ducks.
There are two items I will mention here which made things a little more
difficult.
We had
brought a gun and ammunition with us to shoot ducks of course to eat on the
way, but this is now the close season for ducks and chickens and one is liable
to be fined, they say ducks are getting scarce so have to be protected.
The other
is the Sabbath laws. I don’t
particularly wish any one to think that we travel on Sundays but as it was
Saturday when we started out I will leave you in the dark. Well now – a man must not start a journey on
Sunday, if he is out on one then he may go ahead with it, but that is all and
do you know the reason for it? Well – it
is not a religious motive that has prompted the legislation to pass this
law. For nobody outside the churches can
say anything about Sunday over here and they are not in the majority. But that is not the reason; half the people
would be working on Sundays and they would be taking away work and money out of
the hands of the others, the result everybody would have to work to keep par with
the rest.
Believe
if you like it will make no difference to me, but I have seen a little of
Canada and its people. Well now – you
see the ducks are protected against vicious men and what’s man protected
against? The only answer is: against
himself. So you see this wonderful
freedom loving people have to protect themselves against themselves. They are
truly a wonderful people. However I
would not like anyone to think badly of them for adopting protection for you
might get it in England yet.
There is
another piece of law which is more sensible than either of the latter. For leaving a fire unextinguished we are
liable to a fine of $100 and no alternative.
It is said that a man who is the cause of a prairie fire may as well get
of the country without delay so we have to be just most careful.
I’m
afraid I’ve wandered a long way from my subject but will now try to get
back. It was about 7pm when we drove our
team right into the thick bush, where it would have seemed almost impossible to
get them out, but as it was rather a damp, chilly night we needed shelter so we
drove them well in, unpacked and cleared a space in bush for camping and almost
had to cut the horses out. However we
soon had our tent fixed, fire lit and supper ready. We had much to do and darkness coming in.
A few
willows made a good spring mattress and kept our bed from the damp ground. There was however a duck (a protected one of
course) to shoot, and before bedtime this was dressed and potatoes prepared for
food next morning, just imagine what a busy night we had. It was quite dark by the time all was done
and ready for bed, try and imagine yourself, lying on a bed made of willows,
amongst bush, which happens to be away on the boundless prairie but will be
nothing unless you can hear the Coyotes howling, ducks quacking, grogs chirping
and other pleasant noises but they soon drummed us to sleep, this was, I
believe my first night to sleep in a tent, but I’m quite certain I never had a
better night’s sleep.
The next
morning we wished an early start so it was very necessary to have the fire on
in good time. You’ll remember there was
a duck to roast before breakfast; which was done all in good time.
Our
method of lighting a fire is of course very similar to that adopted by campers
and especially gypsies in England. There
were plenty of willow sticks which burnt very readily. So with a roaring fire almost enough to roast
a bullock, breakfast was soon ready.
There were horses to water and feed and harness so after breakfast we
soon packed up and once more ready to start.
It was a fine morning and we were in the midst of some fine
scenery. The roads were in good
condition once more after a dry night and the team jolted on at a good
speed. After driving a while we somehow
got off the right trail, and went two miles too far east and found ourselves on
the riverbanks. This delayed us for a
time but we soon got to the right trail.
We reached the bridge about 3am.
This was a fine spot surrounded by lovely scenery. The hills and rivers are splendid and the
bridge making a fine picture.
Content
is a very small village situated by the river but was soon lost to view by the
hills, trees and bush. We could have
reached Stettler which was about 18 miles if we had cared to do so, but we
thought after travelling 70 miles in two days we were not doing so badly. We however went about six miles further and
from the road a little way pitched our tent.
We had intended going a little further but we struck some “Yorkshire
folks” and stayed right near their house.
They simply would have us stay, when they knew where we came from. They wanted us to have supper and breakfast
with them, but we declined, however they brought us out tea. There was just the
man and his wife; both Yorkshire and they were the nicest people I’ve met in
this country. They had a really
comfortable log house and seemed to be farming well and doing well and his wife
although she’d not been used to farming, knew almost as much as he did now. The man had farmed near Scarborough but knew
quite a lot about Cleveland. They kept us
talking very late that evening. The next
morning we were not in such a hurry, as we knew we were but within a few miles
of the place we intended staying for a time.
It was nearly 9am when we finally left this place, we now came out into
a much better farming country and the land very good and of course the railroad
runs through it so that there is much more activity going on. We reached shelter about noon, got the
information we needed, unharnessed our horses and had dinner and started out
again four miles north. It came on
raining well next day, so we were delayed a few days as the roads were soon in
bad condition. We had intended going
further on to see more land, and probably have gone back another way over the
river, but owing to delay we finally decided to take same route, so I need not
say much about our return. We called
upon and lunched with our Yorkshire friends passing over the bridge in good
time the first day.
Stettler
The first
evening we camped in amongst the bush in a sheltered place, quite near a big
ranch. The next morning we lit fire by
roadside, where there is not so much grass so less danger of spreading. We had just sat down by it when a big drove
of cattle came along. I should think 200
head. They were driving them away to be
shipped. The drovers looked very
savagely at us as they knew the cattle would not pass the fire, the only
alternative was to drive them through a big slough, which they did with much difficulty. I took a snapshot of them, but the morning
was not very bright so it did not come out well. We drove back over nearly same road, we
enjoyed the scenery much.
We come
across some Yankees and they had closed the road up over their land, which we
wanted to be through. They had a dog
that had evidently been worrying a neighbours poultry, they said they didn’t
want to shoot it, would we have it?
However we told them we had no use for it, and they asked us if we would
take it ten or twenty miles on our journey and tie it up against somebody’s
door and leave it, so in order not to offend them, we agreed, after going about
a mile we took off the rope and put on its neck a ticket on which we inscribed;
“quite unmanageable, kindly keep it till we come again and we’ll have it”. We thought we’d show Mr Yankee we would be a
sharp as him for once.
Lang was
with us this time so more of us to do the cooking etc. We lunched just where we camped the first
night out, it was a swelteringly hot day so we had a good rest, before starting
again. Strange to say it came on very
cold during the afternoon and by suppertime we found it advisable to run up our
tent, it was as we thought coming on a hailstorm. However it was not so very bad and we went on
again and by driving very hard, we eventually reached our journey end. We drove from Stettler to Curlew in two days
near 100 miles. Whenever it was possible
we drove right through the prairie, open section and it was nearly 11pm when we
surprised Martin’s housekeeper. The
night was very keen and frosty.
I really
did not intend returning to Curlew but going right down to Calgary from Curlew
by train. However we decided to go right
into Olds with first train that passed.
We were up in good time, but had to run with luggage only partly packed
and just caught some Germans going in so got started in good time. It was a fearfully cold day and about noon
came on a snowstorm. We expected these
fellows would lunch at the stopping house.
So had brought no lunch with us.
They had their own lunch and only stopped by roadside. We had to go without food from breakfast till
we reached Olds about 4pm. Though we had
breakfasted early we were just a bit hungry and cold when we reached town. We got down to Calgary lake the same evening,
but the storm still continued all night, the stock were in bad condition.
When we
reached Olds we found we were in the hands of rogues. It is usual when given a ride to give them
something to pay for their dinner but they charged us two dollars and a half
each, that being 19/- each, for a ride on a wagon and being about frozen they
said Martin had made a bargain with them, but I knew that was not so or he
would have told us. I at first refused
to pay so much but they took possession of my luggage refusing to give me it
till I had paid it. We finally had to
pay up, but “Yankees” are all rogues.
Jim’s diary
then went on to describe Calgary in May 1911.
Well –
for about two days all was at a standstill in Calgary as is I supposed always
the case in the country. A wet day or
two and everything outside is drawn up to a standstill, but gets going in a few
hours when the rain ceases and it beings to dry up.
I’m
afraid I’ve already written too much but I will fill up the few remaining pages
with something that might chance to be of interest to someone if not, well –
there’s only the wasted ink, and I will count nothing for the time.
Most
people who may chance to see this have doubtless heard a good deal about Canada
and this may probably only remind them of what they already heard before. However I thought I would write a little on
Calgary. as it is (thought not a western capital) the
largest of the prairie towns. I have now
lived in it for over a month. I may
claim to know a little about it, and what I write here I shall never write in
letters, so if there is anything worthwhile remember it.
Calgary
may truly be taken as a type of the western towns, with however the exception
of one thing which is I think a great blundering oversight on the part of those
who had laid it out and planned it and will always be a great drawback. This is the extreme narrowness of the
streets, which are much narrower than those of Winnipeg which is of course
quite an old town compared to Calgary.
Many of the streets are not much old country streets in England (England
is always called the “old country” here and of course is so to us) but I will I
hope in spite of this drawback show you that it is a long way ahead of England.
Many
English people, I believe, have a notion that what we call a town over here is
just a small insignificant place made up by a few hundred homesteads and
ranches and I may say if this is the idea you entertained of Calgary you may
dismiss it at once, but think of it as a very important city. It is always called the “City” and rightly
so.
At the
taking of the last census I believe Calgary had a population of 32,000. The
census is at present being taken, and it is rumoured it will be 50,000. I am not sure how often the census is taken,
but it is not every 10 years as in the “old country” but I think every two or
three. I believe Calgary had 7 or 8
years ago only 5,000 people. I may be
wrong with these figures but I know it was a very low figure. Well now – I will try to describe to you what
Calgary is like. It is surrounded by
hills not very high but the city lies in a basin. If you climb up any of the hills, you look
down on it, and you can see almost every building and I will leave you to
imagine what a fine view this is. It is
also surrounded on every side by a river.
It splits in two at I think the west end of the town and runs right out
into a very wide circle forming an Island. This river, of course, accounts for
the hills, the island has been chosen as the town site.
She has
not been satisfied with the limited space inside the river, but has burst out
on almost every side and it is clambering over the hills at a rapid pace, in
spite of the fact that there is a lot of land still inside, yet to build upon,
most of which is held by speculators at a very high price.
The
river, is of course, only shallow, not however too much so for suicides etc. as
only a week ago a woman deliberately threw herself into it and a few days
previous to that a horse was also drowned in it.
It is
bridged on all sides and the trains run over.
There are two sections over the river, which are almost like little
towns. East Calgary and “Crescent
Heights” are their names. The rivers
namely “Bow River” and “Elbow River”.
These are all laid out on a throw system, also named on a system. One part they are called “Avenues” and
another street the Avenues run east and west at site north and south. Beginning at the north side close to river
1st Avenue and counting up to something near twenty on the south. Then we begin at Centre Street of course in
centre of town then 1st Street East and 1st West and so on running into turns
at each side of the centre. Well – this is hardly worth mentioning for you
probably know it all, however, this is the American system all over, I think,
and is adopted all over Canada at any rate in all the new places
The
streets each way are perfectly straight, crossing each other at right angles
everywhere, so as you go through the streets, at a certain distance you come to
a crossroad, cutting the buildings into blocks.
In the main streets two rows of buildings are arranged back to back, and
have a back road which is rather narrow, through which the telephone and
electric wires run, also much heavy traffic which helps the main streets a good
deal.
The
Avenues with the exception of the two chief ones, are all lined with
trees. Many have trees inside gardens
and a row outside the footpaths and in some parts the footpaths are already
overturning with trees and thick bush at this time of the year and look simply
splendid. Most of the houses, have
gardens also trees planted. Lawns are
well kept and the flowers look fine. It
is quite a common sight to see ladies gardening and in the evening watering
their lawns and flowers with hosepipes, water is very plentiful. There are in Calgary some beautiful
residences, gardens and grounds splendidly laid out.
The first
three motor buses hit Calgary streets in 1907, and two years later the
municipally owned street railway system, with seven miles of track, opened in
Calgary. The immediately popular street railway system reached 250,000
passengers per month by 1910.
The
privately owned MacArthur Bridge (precursor to the Centre Street Bridge over
the Bow River) opened in 1907 which provided for residential expansion north of
the Bow River.
The
early-1910s saw real estate speculation hit Calgary, with property prices
rising significantly with growing municipal investment, CPR's decision to
construct a car shop at Ogden set to employ over 5,000 people, the projected
arrival of the Grand Trunk Pacific and Canadian Northern Railways in the city
and Calgary's growing reputation as a growing economic hub. The period between
1906 and 1911 was the largest population growth period in the city's history,
expanding from 11,967 to 43,704 inhabitants in the five-year period. Several
ambitious projects were started during this period including a new City Hall,
the Hudson's Bay Department Store, the Grain Exchange Building, and the
Palliser Hotel, this period also corresponded to the end of the "Sandstone
City" era as steel frames and terracotta facades such as the Burns
Building (1913) which were prevalent in other North American cities overtook
the unique sandstone character of Calgary
Nearly
all the houses have balconies and there with trees, lawns and flowers etc and
the neatness of houses look decidedly attractive. They are, of course, mainly of wood, with
shingled roofs. It would be quite safe
to say 80% are wood, but they are very nearly finished and painted chiefly
white and green.
At
present I am residing in 1st Street East and I can go out and look away from
this from the centre of town and miles away at each end, land away out of
town. At each side of road it is lined
with trees which look extremely pretty; viewing them along such a distances as
this, but by that I again wished to show the extreme straightness of the
streets. Many people think streets don’t
look so straight as crooked (especially English folks) but I like them much
better and think they are much more convenient. And its most easy to find ones way about. Numbers are on Street corners and sometimes
carved in cement under ones feet.
You will
understand that a town like this, which has grown in a few years from nothing,
owing to the lack of labour, street developing is a good deal behind and by no
means are the roads all paved, as it is only in the summer months that this
sort of work can be carried out to any large extent, but as you walk round the
town, you may perhaps pass half a dozen gangs of men at work, (as much as 100
in a gang) tearing up the streets, preparing them and laying tram lines. A week later, you may pass by again and find
them perhaps a mile away, or in the side street, having left behind them a
perfectly new fine street and line. This
is how the work is going on in whatever direction you take.
In order
to show you how work is progressing I will try and describe to you just one
contraction I was interested in a little while ago and had the opportunity of
watching them for a few days and getting to know a little about it. They were hauling gravel for the city and
also some private firms, the city is the Council usually called the Corporation
in England. They had when I saw them
last about 30 teams on and about 20 men to fill the wagon at the gravel
pit. The man with team does but drive
the horses whilst the men fill it and are moving around in a rush all the time,
and each man drives right away to town as soon as loaded. Each one carries 1½ yards by measurement,
which I think is 2 tons in weight. This
firm had demand for more than 1000 yards per day. They build a large camp and have about 70
teams on now, I expect and camp them out of town, I don’t know how many men they
will have.
They mix
the gravel with cement and pour it down in cartloads and of course making it
perfectly level it is mixed by steam.
They next find some smooth composition on the top which makes the roads
like iron. The soft roads, which are not yet paved get as hard as some roads in
very dry weather but when a little rain comes, things are in a very short time
very muddy and almost impassable.
The tram
lines are very often laid before the streets are paved but I believe are torn
up as soon as paving operations being.
The roads when once paved, are not always needing repairs. The main streets are paved with bricks. There is also all the building going on in
the town on every street new buildings are being raised and very rapidly and
every important new building is an improvement on the last. There is at present some very large buildings
on the way. The CPR is building a very
big hotel near the station, the Hudson Bay Co. are building large stores that will take years to complete.
There is
a hotel quite near almost completed.
Seven storeys high, it is a brick building and has a lift. I’ve been dozen of times up its winding
stairway, only this morning I was standing on the roof, so I know what its like climbing up the steps. The roofs are all flat, it is an exceedingly fine building, and
entirely equipped with everything modern.
All the
centre of the town is built of stone and brick, the large business places,
banks which are very numerous and Post Offices etc. This morning from roof of building I’ve
referred to I had a splendid view of the whole town and could see the Rocky
Mountains very clearly.
The tram
service I think I ought to mention. They
do not run in every street but every other.
Cars are very similar to those of England but do not work on the same
reversible principle. They turn round or at least at points. They run in a circle and turn bodily round. I
think they usually run round and round the city.
Last week
was a week of tragedy for Calgary. I
have already referred to one and I think the same day a poor woman was killed
being run over with a car having got off one and stepped right in front of
another and was dragged along way under the fender of cars. A most horrible death. Only a few days afterwards a baby was found
in the river and a day or two before all this a man shot a policeman. This of course all fills up the newspapers.
The
station is very small for a place like this, but the Railway Companies are very
independent unless there is danger of another Company coming in and then
they’ll do anything.
Every
house has electric light, and when going to bed, we only have an electric lamp
to switch on; no fiddling with gas metres, or “penny in the slot” etc. also
telephones, we can phone from our own room door to any part of town.
There are
some very fine churches in Calgary. The
Methodists, Wesley and Dimitives are in this country
amalgamated.
The
Church of England is also a very large place and there are also lots of smaller
places all over the town. Presbyterians,
Baptists Congregationalists all have their own churches.
The
Canadian soldiers are at present camping a little way out of town. I saw this afternoon a large batch of them
pass through all mounted. I believe most
of them are mounted. They could never
get over the prairie on foot. There will
be a big parade on Coronation Day and I expect to get a few snapshots. It will be a general holiday in Calgary and
there is lots of sport.
The
coronation of George V was on 22 June 1911.
The car
fares, I forgot to mention are rather different to England. The conductors I understand buy tickets and
sell them at a certain rate.
You can
purchase eight tickets for a quarter or 25 cents and with one of these you ride
as far as you wish. I do not exactly
know the price of one ticket but it will not be less than five cents, as that
is the least coin used in this part of the world. You cannot use a cent this side of Winnipeg
if you want a single stamp you pay five centres, of course you can get five
cent stamps with it. Any kind of
newspaper is five cents. Although you
can get any weekly sent for one dollar per year. That is less than two cents off each copy.
Motor
cars are very much used, on fine clear nights the streets are full of
them. When the police have to conduct
main corners. They are very numerous in
the day and even in bad weather when the roads are very muddy they go running
and splashing about. They travel on
roads English folks would say would ruin a car and big fine cars too. There are several big motor cars and many of
them hire their cars out.
Another
important item, I think I have not mentioned is the fire brigade. They are very numerous and are posted in
every part of the town and have every modern appliance and staff of men on the
spot always. They each have the horses
ready and motor cars. The Captain rides
ahead in car which makes a loud whistling noise which everybody understands and
so makes a clear coast for it.
They have
everything fixed in three minutes, when the bell rings and they’re very often
out in less.
They are
of course, often being called out for the smallest outbreak as if it got a good
hold it might mean half the town being destroyed. The firemen are all drilled and thoroughly
trained and always in uniform.
The
horses, I am told, are so well trained that when the fire bell rings the stable
door is automatically opened, the horses walk immediately into their places
under their harness which is hanging on the roof and by the touch of a spring
the harness is lowered and just clasped on almost in one piece.
The men
are instantly in their places, therefore they are easily away in three minutes.
The
stations are all open for one to examine. Of course I know you have all these
things in England.
One night
they were called out I was out in the street with my camera but although the
sun had not set it was cut off the scene by tall buildings. My films are now being developed but I don’t
expect anything.
Last
night I went to hear a London Congregationalist, principal of Hackney College;
he was an old gentleman, but delivered a good speech.
There are
lots of political meetings in town and all parties are represented, even the
socialists. I have not heard of the
suffragettes but the women are organised in some way. Only tonight I noticed a meeting would be
addressed by a lady a social reformer and if I’d known where the church was I
should have gone. I should like to see
the suffragettes out here!!!
There is
all nationalities in Calgary but most are Chinese, or as they are termed here
“Chinks”. They have laundries, restaurants and some of them stores. There is in one part nothing but Chinks. They go about hunting laundry and bring it
right back. As I write this the “old fool” who takes mine has just brought it
in. He comes every Saturday night
somewhere about midnight. Sometimes
everybody is in bed. However they are
useful in their way, especially since there is a scarcity of women.
There are
also a great many squaws of both sexes. With blankets and shawls tied about
them and beads hanging around their necks.
Some of them look very inhuman.
They go round amongst the dustbins sorting out all the rubbish.
I think I
have already told you how very smart the people of Calgary are, but a lot of
them talk as though they had a big crust in their throats and to see them going
about chewing you would really think something was wrong. I believe if you look in the dictionary you
will find I’m not far wrong when I say they “chew their cuds”. Every shop sells
chewing gum and it is very largely used by those who don’t indulge in the other
sort.
I do not
know if I have already mentioned the cost of living here or not. But everything is just about twice as much as
in England and it is impossible to get room and board under six dollars per
week that being 25/- and at the Hotels two dollars per day.
I notice
they are having on “Coronation Day” several different races, horse races, foot
races, and sports. It is going to be
quite lively and there is to be a big parade with the soldiers.
The
streets are full of soldiers every night from camp but they are not the well disciplined men we see in England, they have glorious
fine uniforms, but the men are not this.
Some of them look more like escaped convicts but I think they are mostly
rescues or territorials or some such.
However I suppose they are very brave fellows.
I have
been reading tonight in the overseas Daily Mail (so called but which is a
weekly printed specially in London for overseas) that you’ve had the finest
month in May, that you have had for a lot of years and I was thinking things
must have had a turn since I left for it has usually been a miserable month.
The
Editor speaks of a great heat wave and the pretty flowers that are blossoming
in the parks and gardens of London and I think perhaps you must have had some
April showers. I suppose London will
never have been so pretty as it is going to be next week and I really feel as
though I should like to be there, but I’m afraid I’m too late. We get lots of news and lies in the Canadian
papers. If there is a by election in
England or Lord Roseberry makes a speech or Chamberlain sends a letter to the
press, we have it here next day, but we don’t often get the real thing I’m
afraid. By the phoney papers the
English public are just about murdering (or as we say lynching) our Prime
Minister, but whatever they do they can’t get over the fact that Canada has
been well ruled.
Since I
came out we have had all kinds of weather, snow, frost, hail, rain and heat and
it has not appeared to me so very much different to the English climate but now
it seems to be getting hotter every day and today June 19 it is intense.
According
to reports, Canada is going to have what the papers term as a bumper crop and I
think the moist spring, must have been favourable to all kinds of crops. There is
just off the lake, a large Indian reserve been sold, somewhere in
Calgary and district and land has been making very high prices. I suppose the Indians are being moved away to
another part out of the way.
I met the
man who sat next me at table on board a few days ago, also another man who
travelled to Winnipeg with me and yesterday I met a painter who travelled on
the “Canada” on his next voyage and they had had a similar voyage.
I have
now reached the last page so will not write any more. I think I have already too much, much of
which is not at all interest, but if one really wished to write more there is
plenty to write about but no doubt would take a lot if
time and would be necessary to look up facts regards the country and study a
little of its history.
There is
certainly plenty of scope for those who wished to take the trouble and had the
time. There is however lots of good
books on Canada but there is no reason why there should not be others
forthcoming.
Well – I
must say Canada will be a prosperous country in the future and it is quite up
to anything I expected of it. So I am
quite satisfied. If anyone should
require further information please let me know.
Calgary
is all bustle and hurry for the Coronation.
A big arch is being erected in Centre Street which is to be donated and
the City will be very smart. The Town Hall is already decorated on the outside
and looks fine. Two huge guns standing
in front. George saw the King in very
large letters. The shops are all full of
Coronation goods and “Union Jacks” and they say Canada is not loyal but all
sane folks in Canada are loyal to the “Old Country”.
Jim did not stay long in Canada before he went to America for
the rest of his life. Jim always wanted to improve his education and there
wasn't much chance in those early days in Canada. So he decided to go on to
USA. He 1915, he managed to get into Dulath High School from where he got
himself a place at Valpraiso University in Indiana,
USA. His story is
picked up again in Act 28.
Scene 4 - The Kinseys of Three Hills
Kate Farndale settled Three
Hills, Alberta, where her descendants, the
Kinsey family, still live. When Kate
Farndale arrived to look after Martin and George, a hard
life after the farm in Yorkshire, she met the Kinsey family of Cheshire,
already friends of her brothers. Then, on 28 June 1917, she married William
Henry Kinsey at Stettler. Bill Kinsey had homesteaded 16 miles north west of Three Hills and extended an existing
prairie shack. They had three children, George, Dorothy and Alfred. They lived
at Three Hills where Kate’s brothers
Martin, George and Alfred also lived.
Bill
Kinsey’s threshing set in about 1900 in Alberta, Canada Harvesting on the Prairies
William
Kinsey was born on 13 February 1874 in Cheshire. For a number of years he lived
on a dairy farm in the United States. In 1904 he homesteaded 16 miles northwest
of Three Hills. His brother John and
he bashed in a 12 foot by 14 foot shack. Later they built a main room onto it.
In June 1917 William married Catherine
Jane (“Kate”) Farndale. They had three children. George later farmed 15
miles northwest of Three Hills,
Dorothy Goodbrand lived southeast of Lake Am, and Alfred farmed 13 miles
northwest of Three Hills. William Kinsey was a trustee of Curlew School. He
joined the Council after Bill Hazel's death in 1938 and remained on until
amalgamation, a period of about 5 ½ years. His brother George Frederick Kinsey
was on the council in 1912 and resided on his farm. William Kinsey died in
February 1959 aged 83.
Kate is
always remembered as very strict. She would not tolerate smoking or drinking
alcohol. She was deeply religious and set high standards of behaviour for her
own family. There are many stories of going out to the barn for a drink or a
smoke to avoid her displeasure.
In 1922,
Prairie College, originally founded as Prairie Bible Institute, was established
in Three Hills with L. E. Maxwell as
its first principal. The population of the town prospered in the following
years as did its adjacent settlements. The Maxwell Tabernacle was Canada's
largest religious auditorium before it was demolished in 2005. It operated from
1954 to 2005 as a local church, concert hall, and graduation auditorium of
Prairie Christian Academy and Three Hills
School high school classes.
Kate
Farndale
When her
husband died in 1959, Kate moved to a house at Three Hills, where she was close to her
family. George Kinsey married and moved onto his parents' farm. While growing
up on the farm west of Trochu, Alfred,
George and sister Dorothy attended Curlew School. Alfred worked on the farm
after school with his parents and alongside his brother as well as for various
neighbours and relatives in the local farming community. Alfred attended bible
college at Prairie Bible Institute and graduated in 1952. In 1958 he married Oneta Davis and they moved
to the farm where he had grown up. In 1960 they moved to Three Hills where they joined Prairie
staff for 5 years. Alfred worked there on the farm and in the milk pasteurising
plant. Kate died on 9 September 1966, aged 82 years, at Three Hills. She is
buried not far from her brother, Martin Farndale,
in Trochu graveyard.
Because of
development of the nearby methane fields, the food and lodging industries in Three Hills grew significantly in later
years.
Scene 5 - The Saskatchewan Butcher
William Farndale
emigrated to Saskatchewan and served in the Canadian Army in World War 1, dying
shortly after that War from influenza.
He is shown
on the passenger list on the Victorian, a ship on the Allan Line,
departing 13 August 1913 from Liverpool to Quebec, a labourer, aged 22.
He first
went to join Martin
Farndale at Trochu and got himself a job
there as an assistant butcher. What happened next is not clear, but it seems
that in about 1914 he moved to Earl Grey in Saskatchewan, presumably to
continue his trade as a butcher. February 1918. He lived at Last Mountain,
Saskatchewan, a lodger, and butcher working on own account with a shop. He was
unmarried.
At some
time, probably 1915, he joined the army and went to France. His enlistment date
was 19 April 1916 at Regina, Saskatchewan. He was wounded in action at Vimy Ridge on 13 December 1916
while serving with the 28th Battalion. He had a gunshot wound in the right
forearm and was in hospital in Epsom, England. He was discharged from the Army
at Calgary on 18 February 1918.
We know that
he returned to Earl Gray and that in the great flu epidemic of 1918 he drove
patients to hospital, caught flu himself and died. The wording on his memorial
in Earl Gray reads Farndale. 28th. In Memory of Pte Wm Farndale, 28th Batt.
UEF. Died Nov 26th 1918, aged 25 years. Erected by his fellow Comrades and the
citizens of Earl Grey and district, in grateful recognition of his services to
King and Country. Actually the age is not quite right, since in November
1918 he would have been aged 26.
William had
been engaged to a girl in Earl Grey at the time of his death. She wrote to some
members of the family but there was no trace of her since.
Scene 6 - Ranch Life
Grace
Farndale emigrated to Alberta, married Howard Holmes and lived on a ranch
there, before returning later in her life to Alberta.
Grace
Farndale’s diary
touches on the thrills and trepidations of emigration to Alberta.
Brother Martin came over
from Canada during the Christmas of 1927. Father was very ill and he died in
January 1928 at the age of 82. It was the first and last illness of his life.
He had had prostate gland trouble and they wouldn't operate in those days on
the elderly. The doctor said he was as sound as a bell, except for this
trouble. So ended the worthwhile life of a fine old man. One of the best in his
upright, honourable life and outlook. At that time I was only at home casually
as Peggy and I were at the poultry farmer
Leeming Bar. She and Alf had got engaged to be married in
March so that was that! Both father and Martin had
discussed the possibility of my going back to Canada with Martin. I had
serious thoughts and I felt I knew I was going to do just that as I was at a
loose end. I had always wanted to go anyway. Then when Peggy
and Alf
decided to go that did it.
It was an
exciting and busy time. I was thrilled to bits. Dorothy and
Alf Ross got married. There was so much to do selling our poultry farm etc. ‘We
were all hell bent for election’, to use one of Howard's expressions. One of
our neighbours said he had never seen such an exodus of a family. I guess it
was Gran really, we all stayed as long as he lived, though he never asked us to
do that. We were to do as we wished. After all we were all grown up and we were
all very independent. John stepped into
Tidkinhow with the help of Lynn
and did very well for himself during the Second World War.
There was
a touch of sadness deep down about leaving the old place, for us all I think,
and England. One never does these things lightly. But for me the excitement of
going overseas counterbalanced all that. It had to be done and I never tried to
shirk difficulties. Sometimes I thought I rather enjoyed the challenge in my
quiet way. It made life more interesting. I had already found out life was far
from rosie all the time long ago, just occasional
little glimpses. I was always an optimist and felt that there was a new life
ahead of me. At the time of leaving for Canada, I said I would stay five years
or so.
Dorothy
and Alf got married, just family in a few neighbours and off they went. Peggy
and Alf were
the next. Ditto. A family quiet wedding and they were off to Canada. I was left
to pack up which was a big job. Martin was at
the bungalow with me. Lynn
and John were
ensconced at Tidkinhow and Martin went up
again. I took as much of our stuff packed in trunks and everyone packed solid.
This chap took me to the train and thought I had rocks in my baggage. Martin had asked
me to go alone to Liverpool on March 30th as he wanted to go to a big race at
Liverpool - The Grand National. I was a bit nervous really. However, he didn't
go to the race and met me at the train, was I ever glad to see him? I was a bit
of a ‘green horn’ travelling and I was terribly thrilled at going to Canada. I
would have got anyway, whether or not Peggy
and Alf had.
I had made-up my mind.
On arrival
in Trochu in 1928, Grace
Farndale wrote When we arrived at Edmonton, Alberta, which was 100 miles
from Trochu, it was even snowing more!
Outside it was much colder, somewhere below zero and after the hot train I
found it very cold when we alighted. We changed trains at Edmonton and boarded
a smaller local train to Trochu. It was getting exciting now; thoughts of
seeing Kate
and family and brother George. Kate I had not seen for 25 years, George had been
over on a visit. Peggy
and Alfred
would be there. It was still snowing a little at Trochu
and I was a bit dismal. No one had been able to get to meet us and Martin got a
taxi. It was below zero and the roads were frozen hard. What a ride! Before we
started Martin
had taken me to a hotel lounge to wait until he rustled up transportation. I
felt so strange. There were men sitting around and one spat into a spittoon
which rather disgusted me. They were dressed like working men in overalls and
windbreaks, no ties and had caps on. One of the men said there was a nicer
sitting room upstairs if I wished but I thanked him and said I was all right.
At last Martin
arrived so he came on he had persuaded a taxi man to drive us.
Trochu in
about 1930
The MainStreet, Trochu in 1973
Grace
remembered, I went for a buggy ride, borrowing Will’s buggy and horse. I had
a blue woollen dress on. This was May and it had warmed up considerably. The
‘gumbo’ (clay), did splash and I never did completely get it off my dress. We
started out to Three Hills from Martin's shack
joyously. A matter of 10 to 15 miles, I forget the exact distance, most likely
10. Well I can tell you it was a long way in a buggy in Canada. The altitude,
3,500 feet above sea level affected one and there was a harsh, dry wind, though
not cold. We were so new to everything and had not acclimatised. It wasn't the
soft mellow climate of England. I remember we came back sleepy and washed out
and very quiet. It was a bit too far, for a start anyway! However, we had to
learn the hard way. We were what they called in Canada, “green Englishman”.
Martin and Alf were busy scouring the country for land for Peggy
and Alf
and finally settled for a farm at Huxley.
There were more trees there, it was what they called “park land”. Then house
building began on the site and they had a builder and Martin and Alf
did the labouring part. I expect Martin was
experienced but not Alf.
It was amazing how quickly they got it up and they were soon in it, though a
lot had to be done both inside and out at least they were on their own. I
stayed alternately between them and Kate for a month or two and then I went to
British Columbia. Kate had got in touch with the Johnsons, Herbert and Evie,
and I had been invited to stay. Also some people in Trochu had asked me to call
and see their sister in Vancouver. Kate was against this idea, saying Vancouver
was a wicked city and I should on no count account go alone. However I had
different ideas and was sure I could take care of myself. Nevertheless I was a
bit nervous being shy and of a sensitive nature.
However I
set forth intending to visit these people and look for a job eventually. It was
June when I left the family in Alberta. There was Mr and Mrs John Leng in
Calgary. Kate had got in touch with them, wasn't she busy! They were from
Cleveland whom the elder ones in the family knew and they met me at Calgary
station and I stayed that night with them. They were kindness itself. The next
evening they saw me off the train to Vancouver and I got a pressing invitation
to go again whenever I returned. Calgary is 80 miles from Banff in the Rocky
Mountains. It was an impressive journey through the mountains, 900 miles from
Calgary to Vancouver. One had to have a sleeper. It took all night on the train
and all next day, till late evening to arrive. After Banff it was soon dark but
next morning I woke up in not so much the granite towering Rockies as at Banff,
but the tapering of lesser ones and also beautifully green fir trees, densely
covered.
It was
much warmer than ever in Alberta and as we neared Vancouver the hills
diminished. There were fields, villages, it looked more like England and it
was, though I would say the climatic conditions were more like the south of
France. It was so much warmer than England. Coming through the Rockies from
Banff the altitude was 6,000 feet and it looked very precarious (the train had
two engines), looking from the train to the valley below. Field was the highest
point and a stop there it felt heady, one felt the effects of the altitude,
must have been 7,000 feet there. After that we descended till we got to sea
level at Vancouver. The guard who came through the train frequently seemed very
friendly and I found him interesting to talk to about the country etc. When we
approached Vancouver I asked him if he could recommend a nice hotel for me to
stay and he told me of one right opposite the station. I didn't like the look
of it and I met a lady, very English, and asked her if it was alright. She
said, “Oh no my dear, don't stay there.” She walked with me until we came to a
YMCA. She said that if you are alone and a stranger that is the best place.
Another impression. In England, 1928, one could have asked a Bobby or train
people and been assured of reliable advice, but not here apparently, though I
never had another experience like that in Canada, but I learned quick!
I had the
address of a lady whose sister I met in Calgary and a friend of Kate’s. Scots
folk. I called and nothing would do but to stay with them and they were most
kind. I stayed a few days then went back to the YMCA and looked for a job.
They all
liked people from the old land. They showed me Vancouver. At that time it was a
beautiful seaport city as it was said in huge letters strung up from one side
of the street to the other, “Vancouver spans the world”. One could see it for
miles on Granville Street. There were fascinating places on the outskirts of
what I thought a huge city. Today it is vast, all built up to such an extent
that there's hardly a blade of grass to be seen. There is Stanley Park, what a
glorious place, it was beautifully wooded and a tremendous acreage, 1,000
acres. In the zoo was every animal and bird in the world, parks, lakes,
playgrounds, it had everything. I've only seen one to compare and that was San
Diego in USA. The colouring of the trees in the Fall was ravishing. I'd never
seen the like. There were many lovely suburbs and villages around Vancouver but
they had all been taken into Vancouver in a massive conglomeration of high rise
apartments etc, too numerous to mention. That is over the years. It was a lovely
spot until about the 1960s.
I spent a
couple of weeks in Vancouver, then went to Victoria where I had been invited to
stay at the Johnsons, old friends from Guisborough. Eva had a shop conveniently
near Victoria, ladies wear, where she and her mother lived. Previous to this
visit I first went to Duncan, British Columbia, to stay with Mr Herbert Johnson
and his wife Evie, an awfully nice girl who was the daughter of a Mr Hind,
super of police at Northallerton. They had a poultry farm and I stayed with
them a month before I went to Mrs J and Eva. Being interested in poultry, I
enjoyed helping with all the work around. I found Herbert J a strange man. He
was spiteful and irritable and he took it out on his wife. One day it was 100
degrees and over in the shade and he took it upon himself to get up on the top
of the hen house which needed repair, hammering away, sweating, all hot and
bothered and stayed there sweltering for hours. Evie would go to bed with
migraine headaches and no wonder. We got along so well, I liked her. Herbert
was the bugbear and could make it very uncomfortable.
Duncan,
British Columbia, was considered the hottest place in Canada. It jostled at the
foot of the forests. There were massive timber camps. H and Evie took me up
many times that I was very thrilled to see these massive trees being cut down
and sawed up with the latest machinery in the world. It was a busy little town,
a lot of wealthy people lived there, retired etc. Probably the assets of the
timber. There was also poultry, fruit and dairy farming. I was a girl just left
school when the Johnsons went to Canada and didn't understand or know them
well, so I had to find out, and did so with a vengeance! Next I went off to
Courtney to stay with Mrs. J and Eva and I got a very warm welcome. Eva had a
ladies’ wear shop in Courtney, very thriving business and a good sized shop. I
got hold right into it whether I wish to or not. I've never had such an
experience. I was hauled from pillar to post and we never stopped, there was no
peace till one went to bed. It was very hot but much cooler than Duncan, being
nearer to the sea.
I was
allotted to help Eva in the shop immediately. Mrs. J was up with the lark
making tea every morning without fail. She was over 80 years old. Then we
hurried off to the shop. Eva went earlier than me and I went at 8 am. Sometimes
I would go into a cafe for a cup of tea or an ice cream, just to sit there for
a few minutes on my own. I was sleepy all the time as going from the high
altitude in Alberta to sea level in British Columbia took a lot of adjusting
to. I could scarcely keep my eyes open. The best of it was, Eva had a car. The
moment we got home in the evenings, Mrs Johnson was waiting with a picnic tea
and we got in and went off to the beach as they said, parked the car right in
front of the water, I believe it was a lake. Once we had our tea we just sat in
the car till dusk and time to go and hopefully to bed. I had been warned by H
and Evie what it would be like at Courtney, and how true it was. I must say
they were all kindness itself to me and all wanted to stay with me to stay with
them. Eva soon offered me a job in the shop, I must have stayed about six
weeks. I went on till I was nearly dead.
Eva said
I could even become a partner in her business. I knew I could never live with
people like that, it was impossible. Actually Mrs J was a positive slave
driver. Of course they didn't like it when I wouldn't, but I know I earned my
keep and I was glad to do it. It was hard for me to refuse, they were done and
nice. I never went back to Courtney. I went to Duncan again after leaving
Courtney and started to look for a job at Queen Margaret school as matron and
was there only a few months. From there I went to Huxley
to Alf’s
when Martin
was born.
Incidentally
both the Herbert Johnsons and Eva changed their attitude to me because I
wouldn't stay among them. I tried to be the same but they wouldn't alter so I
gradually saw less of them with Herbert and Evie. I met s nice couple of
friends of theirs, a very well educated English woman, a nurse, a travelled
woman who had married a lumberjack, a very fine man but quite uneducated, so
different. They kept up a friendship with me and of course H and Evie resented
that and would not ask me to visit which upset me, it was so petty and small. I
was disappointed in Evie because I really liked her. These two other people
were very normal and very kind to me. I was most interested in the lumber mills
and they took me around a lot. They lived not far from the private girls’
school where I got where I had a job, St. Margaret's.
The
school at Duncan was affiliated to Queen Margaret School at Scarborough, England, hence the name. At
Duncan the heat was intense during the day and the nights were warm. I can
remember being impressed by the stars at night, diamonds in an indigo sky. They
seemed to come closer. The visibility was as clear as crystal above the town
and into the forests. It was one of the sights that impressed me and I've never
forgotten. I love to go outside and walk around warm evenings, it's a wonder I
never met a bear because they came down from the mountains to invade the
garbage cans. We were that close to them. It was the same at Banff, Alberta.
In winter
in Vancouver it was traditional that it rained all winter. I was told in
Alberta that it rained so hard in winter that it bounced back a foot or so.
This I didn't believe but when I stayed there over winter I found that it was
true. The winters were wet at both Vancouver and British Columbia, very like
England in temperature. I was often homesick, but meeting different people and
nationalities, scenery, customs, Indians and timber lands, which greatly
interested me, kept my mind occupied and I never dwelt on it much, but it was
always at the back of my mind - homesickness.
When I
was at Duncan in January 1929, Martin
Junior was born and my brother Martin phoned
from Huxley for Peggy and Alf to ask if I would go and help them out as neither
had experience with babies and me having so much at Tancred. “Yes”, I said, “I
will come right away, if I can get leave of my job.” I made up a good story and
they let me go next week. I was overjoyed to get back to my own folk for a bit.
I had not yet got a warm winter coat as British Columbia was milder than
Alberta. I had only a thin coat I had bought I had brought to Canada from
England. I had no rubbers which everyone had to wear against it's cold in
Alberta. First of all there was some delay on the railway and the train was
very late at Calgary, around 2 am I had travelled with such nice people from
Bavaria and Serbia which triggered off the First World War. She was telling me
all the terrible things that happened in that little country. I found it quite
interesting.
After
several hours delay we finally arrived in Calgary, there was a nice quiet hotel
opposite the station which I knew. This lady and I preceded to it and we stayed
the night. Unfortunately there was only one double room left, which meant two
beds, but we accepted it. Upon settling in I notice this person looking at me
searchingly. When we got into bed she was clutching her handbag. I at once
realised that she was wondering if she could trust me. I honestly had never had
any such thoughts of her. I was, if anything, too trusting. But I immediately
wondered about her and I put my handbag in bed with me. However nothing
happened and all was well next morning. We had breakfast together next morning
and went our own ways quite act amicably.
I boarded
the train for Huxley at 10 am and arrived at
about 3 pm. Although only 80 miles, it was a slow journey in those days.
Afterwards we got diesel engines which were quicker. It was very cold in
Calgary and I had no rubbers on my feet crossing from the hotel. I got my heel
caught in the track and the train man came over to me and asked me where I was
going. He said I wasn't warmly enough clad and I should have rubbers. He wanted
to know if I was being met etc. When I assured him I was being met and would be
ok, he put beyond the train and said that in that case I would be warm on the
train. He was most kind and I was amused. They have to look after us out here,
we are what is known as ‘green Englishmen’ and it was true too. When I got to
Huxley there was Alf on the platform with Peggy’s Aquascutum by now lined with
fur, so I was ok. I'm sure the temperature was 50 below zero.
It was
great to be back with them all again. Peggy
and Alf
had their house so hot. Martin
Junior was just a month or so old and they were afraid of him getting cold.
The sides of the heater were red hot with heat. I wonder there wasn't a fire! Martin was there
also and I guess he knew how to bank a fire at night time. I was roasted. The
heat was hard to get used to, I felt prickly all over.
1929 was
very cold in Alberta. It was said it got to 60 below zero, which is very cold
indeed. In my 40 years in Canada I never knew a winter so cold. 20 or 30 below
was normal. In one page I mentioned the Chinook which occurs during the winter.
Warm winds from the Pacific blow through the mountains from British Columbia to
Alberta. When Dorothy Drake was staying with me in 1965 in Canada it happened.
It was 40 below zero when we went to bed and during the night we had to throw
off the bed clothes. I remember saying to Dorothy I was glad she had
experienced this as I always felt no one believed me in England. It was a
welcome change and we rejoiced in it.
Grace met
Howard Holmes and they were married in Calgary on 3 April 1934. Grace moved to
his farm west of Huxley and they remained there until the early fifties when
they retired to Calgary. Howard Holmes farmed south-west of Huxley. They had no
children.
Wedding
of Grace Farndale and Howard Holmes in Calgary in 1934.
Grace and Howard - wedding photo
Kate
Kinsey, Peggy
Farndale, Grace
Farndale, Howard Holmes, Dorothy Kinsey, Alfred
Farndale
Anne
Farndale, Geoff Farndale,
Martin
Farndale
Howard was
educated in the International Boys’ School at Hampstead Heath, London. He was
expected to go into his father's business at the Baltic Grain Exchange, London,
but he wanted to be a farmer, so he came out to Canada in 1902. He hauled
freight from Calgary with a team to this area and often said the trail went
through where Irricana is today. In 1905, he went to the USA and joined the
Minnesota National Guard where he was a Sergeant. He returned to Canada in 1909
and bought the southwest quarter of section 12, west of Huxley and settled into
farming.
Howard
Holmes as a boy in the UK
Howard in the Canadian Army
In 1918,
Howard joined the Canadian Army, the 31st battalion at Red Deer and went
overseas. He returned around 1920 or later, owing to being in the hospital.
Howard then bought the Guy Shaw quarter which was the one north of his own and
again started farming. He was active in the Great War Veterans Association in
Huxley, which became the Royal Canadian Legion Number 2 branch, being a charter
member and a past president.
Martin Farndale
and Howard Holmes at the Holmes Ranch in Alberta in about 1946 Howard Holmes’ Homestead at Huxley
Grace's
ranch
Inside Grace's ranch - the drawing room - about 1935
Howard
Holmes on sleigh on ranch about 1935 Howard
Holmes cutting corn in Alberta about 1935
Grace on
veranda in Canada
Grace,
Canada about 1940 Howard and
Grace Holmes Howard
Holmes at the ranch in Huxley in about 1955 Poem published when Howard died
After Howard
died, Grace
then moved to Calgary and Elmer Fraser rented the farm until she sold it in
1961 to Walter Anderson.
Grace
acted for patients in Calgary
Grace and
brother George
Farndale about 1960 in Calgary Grace, Mary and
Kate,
The Farndale sisters at Sylvan lake in 1960s Grace
outside Dunrovin, Grace’s cottage on Sylvan Lake,
Alberta
Dorothy
Kinsey, Grace
Holmes and Dolly at the Goodbrand Farm in Lacombe, Alberta Grace
with Anne
and Stephen Shepherd. The caption says ‘a kite was flying’
Grace lived in
Calgary until she returned to Leyburn in Yorkshire where she lived close to Alfred
and Peggy.
Scene 7 - The Huxley Farndales
Alfred
Farndale and Peggy
Farndale emigrated to Alberta on the day after they got married. Their
voyage to Canada is part of the
Atlantic Crossings story.
Alfred
building his house in Alberta in about 1928 The porch of the Farndale House
The House that Alfred Built
Alfred Farndale
and Peggy Baker The World War 1
veteran, Alfred Farndale married the independently minded Peggy Baker in 1929
and embarked immediately for the Prairie of Alberta. Defeated by the Great
Depression the family returned to Yorkshire where they built a new life from
the 1930s |
Their son Martin later recalled that Alfred
rented a section and a half near Huxley
some 10 miles north of Trochu and
built a house there. The farm was almost entirely devoted to wheat but with
some cattle. I grew up at the farm and my first memories are of playing on the
prairie and around the slews (a kind of duck pond) near the farm. I remember
all the horses used for farm work, the box waggons with racks, threshing in the
fields and the hot summers. The winters were cold - well below zero, and I
remember the horse drawn sleighs and the bright sun on the snow. I remember the
village of Huxley, the annual sports day,
the Legion parade and buying sweets at Miss Hibbs’ store. I remember visits to
the neighbours, the Hoggs, the Saggers, the Morris’,
the Wagstaffs, the Millers and I remember the
postman, Mr Hibbs whistling in his buggy as he came up the road to what is
still today called Farndale’s corner. But above all I remember the family. Uncle Martin and
Aunt Ruth lived
near Trochu and he spoiled me a lot. Uncle George was
a bachelor, remote and living alone near Three
Hills. Aunt Kate
was strict and austere, but kind and she lived between Trochu and Three
Hills with her husband Bill Kinsey and their children George, Alfred and
Dorothy. I remember evening parties and sitting waiting while the grown ups played bridge. I remember being well looked after
by our nannie, Gladys Grist who later married Aubrey, the son of our nearest
neighbour, Ralph Hogg.
Alfred
Farndale’s House, Huxley in the 1970s
(it no longer stands) Martin
Farndale in front of Alfred
Farndale’s house in July 1973
George
Kinsey and Aubrey Hogg outside the Farndale house at Huxley in July 1973 The Farndale House, Huxley taken from Hoggs’ Place in July
1973 The lilac hedge and
the grain bins
When the
first homesteaders came to the Huxley area,
Innisfail was the centre for all supplies and mail. There was collaboration
between families to bring mail and groceries. Soon Pickering’s Farm became the
local gathering place. Huxley began with the
granting of a post office in 1907. This was operated at the Pickering Farm to
the north of the later site of the town. The post office was granted by the
Government and named Huxley. The name Huxley was suggested by Leslie Roach in honour
of an English poet, Aldous Huxley.
The first school was built in 1907 and named Ashcroft for John Courtland Ash,
the first rancher in the area.
The mail
from Huxley to Perbeck in about 1909
The first
store on the present townsite was built by George Pickering in 1910. It was
operated by Wilton Brothers. The first blacksmith in Huxley was John Stevenson.
The railroad crew arrived in the Huxley district the summer of 1910. By 1911
the railway had ben surveyed. By 1915, Huxley had a newspaper, the Huxley
Recorder.
The
lumber yard at Huxley in 1916
The
Merchants Bank was opened in Huxley in 1919,
with Fred Kell as manager. Later it was amalgamated with the Bank of Montreal.
The second branch of the Canadian Legion to be formed in Alberta was
established in Huxley in 1920.
By the time
the youngest brother, Alfred,
and his wife Peggy
and sister Grace,
arrived in Alberta in 1928, the family was well known in the District. These
two members of the Farndale family settled in the Huxley
district. They lived first with Alfred's elder brother, Martin, near
Trochu while Alfred
built their house on Section 27, opposite Ralph Hogg's hill. It was a two
storey structure, with white walls and a black roof, which stood out for miles
around. The chimney was the only part built of brick, and was made by Frank
Holmes. It still stood for many years into the 1990s, but was uninhabited from
1935. They built a wind pump and several barns and later Alfred
took another quarter section just east of Huxley
on the Wickiser Place.
Alfred
and Peggy’s
son Martin
Baker Farndale was born on 6 January 1929 in Trochu. Marianne
(“Anne”) Catherine Farndale was born in Trochu on 30 October 1930. Alfred
Geoffrey (“Geoff”) Farndale was born in El Nora on 10 April 1932.
In 1930
Gladys Grist from Trochu came to help look after the children. She was later to
marry Aubrey, son of Ralph Hogg who was Alfred's nearest neighbour. Her son
Philip later lived at their house and farmed most of the Farndale farm.
Alfred had
fought with the British army in World War I and completed a unique team of
three brothers who had fought with the Canadian, British and American Armies in
that terrible war. He was a member of the British Legion and attended many an
armistice parade in Huxley, by the War Memorial, outside the Memorial Hall.
Both
Howard Holmes and Alfred Farndale were President of the Great War Veterans
Association. The photograph above shows the unveiling of the cenotaph on 11
November 1929.
Alfred in
1930
In 1930
there was a fire which destroyed the Chinese café.
Huxley in
about 1930
The
homestead map in about 1930 which shows the Farndale land
Peggy
with Geoff
Martin
Anne
Geoff
Anne
Harvest
time on the prairie
Life on the prairie
Shooting Party
The American Farndales Visit in about 1931, Martin, Jim, Kate, Grace, George, Alfred At the Kinseys in about 1933
Back: Alfred Kinsey
Middle: Alfred,
Dorothy Kinsey, Peggy
(with Anne),
Grace
Holmes, Martin,
Bill Kinsey
Front: Kate,
Howard Holmes
The early
thirties were hard on the Prairie. It was hard to get a crop at all, and when
they did, the price was poor, often hardly paying the elevator dues. The work
was nearly all done by horses, but Alfred
bought one of the first tractors in 1930.
During the
long hot summers, Peggy
often took the family to the mountains at Banff, and to the coast at
Vancouver, and Victoria. Otherwise life consisted of hard work and self made entertainment. Bridge parties were common in
winter and picnics in summer, with expeditions to the newly started Stampede in
Calgary, or fishing at Sylvan Lake. In winter life depended on the horse,
either to ride or in a sleigh. The 'rack' bodies were taken off their wheels
and put onto runners to get hay to the cattle. Meat was buried in the frozen
ground to keep, but the houses were always warm. On one occasion Alfred's
dog ripped its tongue out by licking the frozen railway line near Huxley, to
which it had stuck, so intense was the cold. He had to be shot. The call of the
coyote was constantly heard and returning late one evening skunk in the chicken
house, which on being shot left a pungent smell for a long time.
Holidays
in the Rockies and Sylvan lake (third photo is Martin and Anne taken by lake in
Rocky Mountains in 1934)
More
holiday photos
Taken in Victoria, British Columbia
The Dominion
Franchise Act List of Electors in 1935 for the Electoral District of Red Deer, for
Rural Polling Division No 49, Huxley, comprising township 34, range 23, west of
the 4th meridian included a list for 35 Farndale, Alfred, farmer, Huxley
and Farndale, Mrs Alfred (W), Huxley.
Looking back
on those days the family later remembered John Hibbs, the postman, driving his
buggy up to the farms from Huxley whistling
and singing at the top of his voice. Other neighbours well remembered, were
Jake Miller, who farmed to the east, Wagstaffs, and
Billy Morris. On Huxley road were the
Thongs, the Shorts, by the slough; then the Delaneys.
Huxley was a flourishing little community in
those days, with Roach's store and Miss Hibb's
confectionary store. There was Mr McMillan garage and even a Chinese
restaurant! There were perhaps a couple of hundred people in all. The grain
elevator played its vital part in prairie life, and still marked the little
township from many miles away in the 1980s.
There were
many excitements, hail storms, dust storms and the snow. The heat, the
mosquitoes, the fresh prairie air, the stillness, blue skies, bright stars at
night, brilliant sunrises, and sunsets, and always in the distance the Rockies
often covered in snow even in summer. The startling cloud formations and the
sudden thaw with the arrival of the Chinook wind. Indians travelling round to
cut the brush; Sergeant Hammond of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, and the
stories of the Mad Trapper. On one occasion, young Martin aged 4 or 5, was lost
on the prairie, causing great concern and a massive search for the corn was
high and he was small and the danger great. But finally he was picked up,
having walked almost all the way to Huxley, by one of the MacMillans.
The gophers
and the jack rabbits were everywhere and the countryside was brown with the
plough in spring, and yellow with wheat as far as the eye could see in Summer.
These are the sights and memories which, once experienced, can never be
forgotten.
But the
years of crop failure and poor prices took their toll. The money ran out and
Alfred was forced to return to England with his family in 1935. Sadly came the
farm sale in March, and the family went to spend the last days in Alberta with
Grace and Howard Holmes at their ranch near Huxley. It was well below zero on
8th April 1935 when they caught the train to Edmonton where they began the five
day journey to Halifax to catch the Duchess of Atholl
for Liverpool.
Martin
Farndale later recalled that things were not well on the farm. Prices
were bad in the slump years of the early 30s and the weather was unkind so that
my father, along with many others, soon lost all his savings, and in 1935, he
decided to return to England. I remember well the excitement of the farm sale
by our white house with a black roof, on the hill overlooking Huxley. It was early April and it was cold with
snow still on the ground. We spent our last few days in Alberta with Aunt Grace
and Uncle Howard at their Ranch near Huxley and finally caught the train at Huxley for Edmonton on 9 April 1935.
The
return from Alberta. Peggy
and Alfred
at the back and Martin,
Geoff
and Anne
in the front
Alfred and
Margaret Farndale, after emigrating to Canada in March 1928, remained there
until 1935. The slump of the late twenties and early thirties was crippling and
the family was forced to return to England in 1935.
Aubrey
and Glady Hogg who were the neighbours of the Farndales at Huxley, during a
visit by Martin Farndale in July 1973
Lunch at the Hoggs in 1973
or
Go Straight to Act 28 – The Americans