Anglo-Saxon-Scandinavian Kirkdale

A stone with writing on it

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Kirkdale from the beginning of the Scandinavian period in about 800 CE to the Norman Conquest in 1066

Then a short summary of its history after 1066

 

 

 

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Scandinavian disruption

It had been suggested that the minster fell into ruin, perhaps as a result of Danish raids, long before the sundial tells us that Orm Gamalson rebuilt it. Recent interpretation suggests this was not the case. 

There is little evidence from the period of transition from the Anglo Saxon to the Anglo Scandinavian period. However the archaeologists have found the presence of graves which appear to be from the early Anglo-Scandinavian period.

There may well have been unrest, disruption to religious observance and bursts of violence during the early Anglo Scandinavian period. Yet Kirkdale was nested away at the edge of the dales, far from the places where Viking upheaval is known to have occurred. It is possible that there was a relatively smooth transition in culture and leadership at this time. It seems possible that the church at Kirkdale might have assumed greater responsibility for a dispersed population around it, while a larger concentration at the settlement of Kirkbymoorside may have become disconnected from the inhabitants around Kirkdale.

There was certainly a process of sub dividing previously extensive estates into smaller units and Kirkdale’s place in that process is not known. The ninth century was a period of fresh feudal ownership by a new elite and the gradual reestablishment of settlements focused on manors.

When the Scandinavian government was exercised from York, Kirkdale might have found itself in more regular contact with York. The elite associated with Kirkdale in time acquired property in York. This was likely to have increased its connection to York.

Jorvik (York)

The Scandinavian centre of northern England

 

The Scandinavian dominance was the beginning of a period of more profound change. It began a new sense of northern-ness, as a counterpoint to the southern English court.

 

Fears for the end of the world

Whilst Kirkdale might have escaped the worst ravages of the early Scandinavian period, by the turn of the first millennium in the Common Era, there was a widespread heightened anticipation and fear of apocalypse. As the year 1000 passed, the anticipation did not wither, only the uncertainty about the precise date when it would occur.

Wulfstan was appointed Archbishop of York in 1002 during the turbulent times of fresh waves of settlement from the wicinglas, the people of the fjord settlements. By the end of the tenth century, England had become a sophisticated state on the European stage. Wulfstan assumed a sophisticated model of society. However 1014 was a year of crisis. King Aetheraed had been driven into exile, expelled by Sweyn Forkbeard who was accepted as King of the English before dying in 1014. His young son Cnut then became King.

Wulfstan had long served in Aethelraed’s administration. It was in this context that he wrote his sermon to the English people, Sermo Lupi ad Anglos (Lupi being the Latin for wolf, Wulfstan’s pen name). The sermon provided a contemporary definition of morality and foreboding.

The sermon began with a sense of foreboding. Beloved people, know that this is true. This world is in haste and it approaches its end. And so, because of the nation’s sins, things must of necessity grow far more evil before Antichrist’s advent: and then indeed they shall be appalling and terrible widely throughout the world.

It continued, the devil has too much led astray the nation. If we are to expect any cure, then we must deserve it of God better than we hitherto have done. God’s houses are too cleanly despoiled. Nor has anyone been faithful in thought towards another as duly he should. People have not very often cared what they have wrought by word or by deed.

He then recounted that there was a historian in the days of the Britons called Gildas, who wrote about their misdeeds, how they by their sins so overly much angered God that in the end he permitted the army of the English to conquer their lands and destroy withal the Britons power.

He therefore continued and let us do as our need is, submit to what is right and in some measure abandon what is not right.

Archbishop Wulfstan’s Sermon to the English People

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Wulfstan’s ominous warnings as the Millennium turned.

 

Kirkdale in the late Anglo Saxon period

The archaeologists suggest that St Gregory’s minster might have reached its most extensive size before it was rebuilt in about 1055. However the nave, the central part of the church which accommodates most or all of the congregation, was not larger, so this does not necessarily mean that there were more parishioners. It probably continued in its original Anglo Saxon form and not Anglo Scandinavian in form. It has been suggested that we might get some idea of the church at that time by comparing it with St Mary’s, Deerhurst in Gloucestershire.

The sundial does not make clear how long before its rebuilding Orm Gamalson had purchased the church. We are told that he acquired St Gregory’s Minster when it was completely ruined and collapsed. If, as seems likely, the fire occurred shortly before it was rebuilt, then although he appears to have been an extensive feudal landowner including of the Kirkbymoorside estate since shortly after the invasion of Sweyn Forkbeard and Cnut in 1016, his interest in the church itself would have been acquired towards the middle of the century.

If the fire occurred a little earlier than that, say in the 1020s, then Orm might have had ownership of the church for a period of time in its late Anglo Saxon form. It is possible he would have exercised significant patronage in the last years of development of the ancient church. Perhaps it was the activity of extensive rebuilding work by Orm that caused the fire.

Alternatively the minster might already have burned down before Cnut’s invasion and before the Orm family interest.

 

The Phoenix emerges

We do know that there is archaeological evidence of burning. The church appears to have been destroyed by fire, most evident in excavations on its south side. The interior fittings of wood and cloth were inflammable and it seems most likely that the fire occurred in the early to mid eleventh century, shortly before it was rebuilt and may just have been an accident.

When Orm rebuilt Kirkdale minster, with its sundial created by Hawarth, and served by the priest Brand, this was an ancient, ruined, minster church whose cemetery was still used by the local people for the burial of their dead.

Orm Gamalson

The powerful figure at the heart of the aristocracy, who rebuilt Kirkdale and put our ancestral lands firmly onto the national political stage

 

The Kirkdale Sundial

A stone wall with a door

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A unique treasure whose secrets transport us into the world of the eleventh century upon which you can stare today, imagining direct ancestors who did the same a thousand years ago

 

Disturbed graves at the west exterior of the church reflect the chaos of the fire and its aftermath. The area of Trench II became a workshop for the rebuilding work. Debris from the church was taken to this area and later components of the new building programme were prepared within the shelter of a shed like building. The destruction of the old church was so extensive that much of the previous structure required to be rebuilt, but the previous church seems to have been used as the basic template for the new foundations.

No evidence has been found of a residence at this time, so we don’t know where the priest lived.

What survives of Orm's church in the existing visible fabric appears to be the south, west, and what remains of the east walls of the nave; the archway in the west wall of the nave (now opening into the much later west tower) which probably formed the original entrance to Orm's church; and the jambs, angle-shafts, bases and capitals of the arch which leads from the nave into the chancel. The latter archway is some four centuries later than Orm's church, but it appears that the masons who were responsible for it re-used what they could of an earlier chancel arch. It is therefore reasonable to infer that Orm's church had a chancel, though not all Anglo-Saxon parish churches did. It was probably a great deal smaller than the existing one.

Much of the present nave in undoubtedly Orm’s building. The western entrance arch and the responds of the chancel arch belong to that period. Old masonry including grave slabs and crosses, was later used in the west and south walls.

It was the Scandinavian named Orm who rebuilt the minster. Kirkdale does not appear to have suffered Viking destruction, but Scandinavian reconstruction.

Sir Herbert Edward Read, art historian, poet and critic was born at Kirkdale and wrote a poem about Orm’s church in his collection, A World within a War:

I, Orm, the son of Gamal

Found these fractured stones

Starting out of the fragrant thicket

The river bed was dry

 

The rooftrees naked and bleached,

Nettles in the nave and aisleways,

On the altar an owl’s cast

And a feather from a wild dove’s wing

There was peace in the valley;

Far into the eastern sea

The foe had gone, leaving death and ruin

And a longing for the priest’s solace         

 

Fast the feather lay

Like a sulky jewel in my head

Till I knew it had fallen in a holy place

Therefore I raised these grey stones up again

 

The years after the Conquest

Although the story of our family’s journey, of which this website tells, departs in its direct interest with Kirkdale after the Conquest, the family shares much of its story over the following centuries.

Walter Espec encouraged the founding of the Cistercian abbey at Rievaulx in 1131. These austere monks sought detachment from the world, in contrast to the Benedictines and the Augustinians. A breakaway group from St Mary’s Abbey in York established Fountains Abbey and Kirkham Priory. The twelfth century boundaries of Rievaulx suggest that Kirkdale was an island amidst abbey land. By this time Kirkdale was clearly attached with Welburn, a section of the Kirkbymoorside estate. Kirkdale was by then surrounded by abbey lands.

Roger de Mowbray granted the church to Newburgh Priory, who held it until the dissolution. The field to the immediate north of Kirkdale Church which retains prominent earthworks of ridge and furrow, evidence that this field was in arable use by the twelfth century, although we have already noted its arable use long before that.

At about the same time as the Farndale grant in 1154, Roger granted the whole of the vil of Welburn with six bovates of land (but excepting the Church of Kirkdale) to Rievaulx. This land had been in the possession of the Augustinian priory of Newburgh.

A scheduled site at the farm still named Skiplam Grange, situated above Hodge Beck not far north-west of St Gregory’s Minster, preserves an earthworks, associated buried remains and some above-ground remains of buildings from the grange maintained there by Rievaulx Abbey up to the date of the Dissolution. Skiplam was part of the large grant of land given to Rievaulx Abbey by Gundreda d'Aubigny between 1144 and 1154 and later confirmed by her son Roger de Mowbray. This grant included some land in cultivation along with previously unexploited land which the abbey was allowed to assart, or improve and bring into productive use, as they wished. By the time of Abbot Ailred of Rievaulx (1147-1167), Skiplam was operated as a grange.

Under Pope Nicholas’ taxation of 1292, Kirkdale was taxed at £23 6s 8d.

The Cistercians obtained papal freedom from payment of tithes on land which they cultivated themselves. The Cistercians tenaciously maintained their tithe privileges.

In 1432, the prior and convent of Newburgh brought a case in the consistory court of York against Robert Hewlott and Richard Page for non payment of tithes of coppice wood, by virtue of their possession by that time of the parish church of Welburn. The records of the case provide a description of the parish church at Kirkdale at that time:

The parish church of Welburn, otherwise known as Kirkdale, built and dedicated in honour of St Gregory, of the said diocese, which has been canonically united, annexed and appropriated to their said priory [Newburgh] to their own uses.

He submits and intends to prove that for the whole periods stated above there was, was accustomed to be, and is, in the said diocese of York, a certain parish church with the cure of souls, universally and commonly known as Welburn or Kirkdale. It has well known boundaries by which it is distinguished, divided and separated from the other neighbouring parishes. It has a goodly number of parishioners of both sexes, a baptismal font, cemetery, and other attributes of a parish church.

He submits and intends to prove that the right to take an enjoy tithes of whatever kind, both personal and predial, and great and small, and especially tithes of coppice wood issuing from whatsoever places within the parish of the said church [of Welburn] otherwise known as Kirkdale, and the boundaries, borders and places liable to tithe located within the parish belonged and belongs under common law, by sufficient legal right and praiseworthy custom, which has been observed peacefully and inviolately, to the parish church of Welburn, otherwise known as Kirkdale, and the said religious men, the prior and convent, and their monastery or priory in the name of the said church.

On 23 January 1539, Newburgh was dispossessed of Kirkdale. This was no doubt part of the Reformation redistribution.

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Go Straight to Chapter 3 – Scandinavian Kirkdale

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If your interest is in Kirkdale then I suggest you visit the following pages of the website.

·      Introduction to Kirkdale

·      Kirkdale Cave

·      Roman Kirkdale

·      The community in Anglo Saxon Times

·      The church in Anglo Saxon Times

·      The Kirkdale Anglo Saxon artefacts

·      The community in Anglo Saxon Times

·      Orm Gamalson

·      The Sundial

 

You will find a chronology, together with source material at the Kirkdale Page.